Spray Booths - Striper Talk Striped Bass Fishing, Surfcasting, Boating

Sudsy · 12-28-2005, 01:49 AM

Parts:
1 Rubbermaid "Under the Bed" storage container. I only recommend using Rubbermaid products for any application that might involve drilling or cutting holes. The other brands all seem to have a tendency to split while you're drilling them.

1 section of PVC fence rail, the kind with the 2 baffles inside with 2 end caps.
It only comes in 9' sections but I think the leftover could be cut into pieces for plug storage

4" flexible dryer vent hose,
One rubber pipe cap that fits snugly inside the hose
One piece of round sheet metal duct to fit through the wall.

ignore the holes in the back of the piece of white fence, if I were to build it again they wouldn't be there.

To power the booth I used an old box fan unit out of a furnace.

6 3"x1" strips of sheet metal

HVAC Filter material

Duct tape

Pop Rivets

Silicone Caulk

Small piece of plywood

Foam board insulation

First cut the fence rail to size and attach the end caps with a thin bead of caulk. You want it to be long enough to span the full distance in which you'll be hanging plugs in the Rubbermaid.

Take your strips of sheet metal, drill a hole about 1/3 inch from the end corresponding with the size of the pop rivets. Using a vise or pliers bend the strip into a C shape. This is going to act both as a washer for the pop rivets and as a clip to hold the filter in place. (you'll have to unbend it a little when you're inserting the pop rivets)

Lay a substantial bead of caulk about 1' from the edge of the fence piece and place the Rubbermaid container on top of it. Drill and pop rivet it in place with the strips of metal as shown in the photo

You'll notice the 3 screws on the bottom in the rear, they're attaching a piece of old hockey stick that's just the right thickness to hold the container level

Using a 1 1/4" hole saw in your drill, drill a series of holes through the Rubbermaid container and the center section of the fencing.

Cut a rectangular hole as large as possible through the rubber pipe cap and the center section of the fence piece. Attach the rubber pipe cap with 4 pop rivets. You don't need to caulk this as the rubber seals itself.

Using a drywall circle cutter if you have one, or just a keyhole saw if you don't, cut a hole through the wall that snuggly fits the sheet metal tube. Cut 1" slits in the end of the tube and bend them out to form flanges. From the outside slide the tube through the wall.

I take no responsibility if cutting a hole between the garage and the inside of the house goes against any local fire codes

Slide the flex hose over the rubber pipe cap and the metal tube, it should be very snug. Seal it with duct tape.

Part 2 tomorrow

thefishingfreak · 12-28-2005, 02:04 AM

eff that...

spray booths should exaust "all " fumes outside the cave.
not recirculate them in the shop vac.
and then blow them back inside

Tagger · 12-28-2005, 05:07 AM

been eyeing these for a while Larry ..
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Paasche-Hobb...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/MEW-JC-Metal-Fab...QQcmdZViewItem

capesams · 12-28-2005, 06:45 AM

Tagger...sudsy has the right idea,,plastic box, but you can use a bathroom ceiling fan that take's 4"flexable dryer hose and run it 20 plus feet to where you need to go without losing any power at the end of the pipe..it has the same fin's in the fan as do the dust collector's..motor is outside of the unit and so it never come's in touch with the paint particles......I use one in my office[playroom] to clear the room of gases/paint/thinner/smoke and old fart smell's...the thing suck's/clear's a room 18x12 in no time.

Striperhound · 12-28-2005, 06:52 AM

Larry, I just picked up one off of ebay for short money. The unit I picked up was a Microlux 15'' x 20" standard spray booth. I found these on the web @ micro-mark.com Item # 82427. They list for the high 200 dollar range. I was able to pick one up on ebay with a Iwata BCS Eclipse airbrush and hobby compressor for $250 total. Micromark does have them available just check out ebay as well for deals. I am going to set mine up this weekend and will snap a picture for you.

Sudsy · 12-28-2005, 10:56 AM

Double post

Sudsy · 12-28-2005, 11:05 AM

Part 2

Out in the garage, cut a piece of plywood larger than the fan unit and cut another hole in the middle to match the metal pipe coming through the wall. Place a bead of caulk around the flanges of the metal tubing and screw the plywood in place being sure to hit the studs. The plywood should be tight against the flanges pinning the pipe in place

Screw the fan unit to the plywood and place a bead of caulk around the edge to seal.

I used foamboard insulation to cover the fan unit and keep what little heat I have inside my office. Just cut to fit and put it together with duct tape. You can either remove it when the unit's running or cut flaps that you can open up.

Put a strip of filter material over the holes in the Rubbermaid and bend the metal strips over to hold it in.

To hold the plugs I used a variation of the epoxy drying system I used in the garage. One side has a slow turning motor with a sewing machine foot pedal to move the plugs as needed

The other side has a ball bearing swivel attached to a cup hook using a piece of rod with hooks bent onto each end. The plugs are just daisy chained together using the same hooked rods.

Both end pieces are held onto the bench by clamps. The entire unit can come apart and be stored inside the Rubbermaid.

Sooner or later I'm going to get my hands on an old computer power supply and fan and will rig this thing to remove all the epoxy fumes as it's curing. The fan unit attached now draws much more air then is required and would suck all the heat out into the garage (which would not be a good thing).

The curing plugs are be protected from dust simply by putting the top on the Rubbermaid container.

THIS IS NOT FIREPROOF - it's only used for spraying water based acrylics.

The fan is 3' from the garage door. During warm weather the garage is left open to vent, in cold weather flexible pipe vents it under the garage door. Another way to do it would be to use a portable assembly that fits in a window. (wouldn't work for me as it would be blowing paint dust right on our tomato garden).

I've been using it for two years now and so far I'm very happy with it.

Sudsy · 12-28-2005, 11:58 AM

Here it is in operation. An undercabinet kitchen flourecent light on top of the Rubbermaid gives a great diffused light to work by.

Tagger · 12-28-2005, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capesams

Tagger...sudsy has the right idea,,plastic box, but you can use a bathroom ceiling fan that take's 4"flexable dryer hose and run it 20 plus feet to where you need to go without losing any power at the end of the pipe..it has the same fin's in the fan as do the dust collector's..motor is outside of the unit and so it never come's in touch with the paint particles......I use one in my office[playroom] to clear the room of gases/paint/thinner/smoke and old fart smell's...the thing suck's/clear's a room 18x12 in no time.

Once and for all ,,,"Can you use a bathroom cieling fan ?" or a "stove hood fan" .. Thats why I think about just buying a unit all made.. Usually in these discusions somebody chimes in ,,( You'll Blow Yourself Up !!!!) ,,,Explosion proof,, blah blah blah... what the skinny for real.. pretty impressive it sux up your farts though ..

Sudsy · 12-28-2005, 07:12 PM

Simple, you spray water based materials they don't go boom - you spray solvent based materials they might go boom.
Boom is bad.

capesams · 12-28-2005, 08:54 PM

Tagger.. I confess..I've done everything your told not to do ten fold then some and I'm still here...........lucky? I think not....you'd need such a HIGH volume of fumes or paint in the air with an open flame before you blow...what your spraying out of a can for a few squirks is well dry before it even hits the floor....we're talking basement builder's here not HAB's or Salty or beachmaster etc. who make clouds of dust when spraying gal's of finish in one sitting....the sky isn't falling.