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Boat Fishing & Boating A new forum at Striped-Bass.com for those fishing from boats and for boating in general |
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05-01-2006, 06:46 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fall River Mass
Posts: 238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishaholic18
Done it many times with no problem. Have to make sure wiring is out of the way and not attatched to cable(common sense). Only way to do it on CC when cable is under deck. Paul. check your PM.
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Oh his is under the deck? I was under the impression his was rail mounted.
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05-01-2006, 08:10 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Newtown, CT
Posts: 5,659
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If you don't have any grease fitting on the tube already, you can drill two holes for the fittings, but before you put the fitting in get some kind of penetrating oil and get some into the tube and let it sit for a while before you get out the hammer. Heat also helps persuade things to move. After you get it out, put the grease fittings in and use corrosion block grease to lube it up well, before you put it away for the winter.
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05-01-2006, 08:38 AM
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#3
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Boat by Day Surf by Night
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: North Granby, CT
Posts: 301
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Professer - I have a Honda 90 and had the same thing happen. The fix is not that difficult. The Honda has a steel steering tube not stainless. The steering cable is stainless the salt water gets in there the steerer tube rusts and the whole thing locks up. The two grease fittings lubricate the tilt tube only NOT the steering tube. Here is what you need to do. Disconnect the steering arm from the engine to the steering cable. If you have enough play in the steering cable you simply beat the steering cable out of the steering tube, you will need something that fits inside of the steering tube as you will need to rap it all the way out. If you don't have enough play in your cable you will need to disconnect it from the helm so it will move as you beat the crap out of the cable. Once out you need a wire brush like a 20ga shotgun brush and clean/hone the steering tube out using WD or alike. Hone clean hone clean until rust color is gone. Go buy a Steersman steering nut with grease fitting (the Honda is 1" not the more common 7/8") and put that on in place of the stock nut. I needed a stainless flat washer to take up some gap as the Steersman Nut only goes on 4 or 5 threads. Now grease it up and your all set. Mine has been fine for 5 years.
There is absolutely NO drilling required as suggested by some other posters.
P.S. Don't try to force it with the steering wheel or you will break the helm. You can have my broken one if you like..........
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05-01-2006, 09:44 AM
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#4
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Uncle Remus
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
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Thanks guys. I did see the grease fittings but I also thought they were for the tilt. After I disconnect the cable which way am I pushing,beating the rod out left to right looking at the engine from the rear with port on the left? So I disconnect the nut on the starboard side and then hopefully it just pulls right out  and then I clean out the tube. Well I am off to try it. P.
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"A beach is a place where a man can feel he's the only soul in the world that's real"
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05-01-2006, 09:50 AM
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#5
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Boat by Day Surf by Night
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: North Granby, CT
Posts: 301
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As your looking at the engine from inside the boat I'm assuming your cable runs under the deck to your left. You need to unbolt the left nut. The right one is the one that gets replaced by the Steersman.
The cable will only pull out easily if the cable is frozen but I will bet the cable shaft is frozen inside the steering tube and the cable itself is fine.
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05-01-2006, 09:51 AM
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#6
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Old Guy
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Mansfield, MA
Posts: 8,760
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I had this happen on my Honda 90 to. I don't understand why Honda cheeps out on the tube. Amazing.
Good luck Prof. It's just grunt work from here.
Bill
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05-01-2006, 09:56 AM
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#7
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Boat by Day Surf by Night
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: North Granby, CT
Posts: 301
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Striperman36 I have that exact rig shown in your Avatar less the T-top
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05-01-2006, 11:05 AM
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#8
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Uncle Remus
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
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Well removed the nut on the starboard side, turned the wheel and the shaft came out as far as the wheel would turn, about 10". The part of the shaft that the motor attaches too, has a flat milled on it and a thru hole for bolt to attach to motor via linkage did not move. Is there a shaft inside a shaft inside the tube? I banged on the what seems like the shaft inside the tube, the part the motor attaches to, and it did budge a little, pushing inside the tube. I need to get this thing out I assume. Lots of cruded up grease inside there. Do I continue to bang that end all the way out of the tube? P.
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"A beach is a place where a man can feel he's the only soul in the world that's real"
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05-01-2006, 12:51 PM
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#9
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Old Guy
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Mansfield, MA
Posts: 8,760
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It's exactly like mine but I have a 90 Johnson SPL
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05-03-2006, 07:42 AM
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#10
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zoom
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Quincy
Posts: 4,145
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Take it out the way it went in. Meaning by pulling the cable back out.
Sometimes when space is limited, they actually install the rod through the engine just before mounting the engine to the boat. This happend on mine so I just kept sutting it off. (but it was not frozen) Anyway, If thats the case it will not back out because its too stiff to make a sharp turn. (I hope not).
If so, a sharpie told me this trick. You may have to lean the engine out from the top bolts by replacing them (one at a time) with LONG carriage bolts and use them to tilt it back so that you now have a clear shot at the tilt tube. loosen the bottom bolts so it can tilt out, but dont take them out. Once leaning away from the transom, you can beat the crap out it easily, and reinstall easily too.
The old cable should have the size (length) printed on it, they don't go by just the length you can measure, there is some difference with the rod and stuff.
Good Luck
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~..~..~.. ><((((º>
Things done at the last possible minute are done with the greatest possible information. Procrastination is, therefore, the most efficient means of doing things.
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05-04-2006, 12:30 AM
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#11
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Seal Control
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Caver, Ma.
Posts: 3,875
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This happened to me once, only once!!~
I did all the above and finaly got it out by using 27 cans of PB Blaster (kidding) and a 5# hammer!
Took a few days, but came out just fine!~
After that I cleaned the tube well, added the grease nuts on the tube with new cable, grease offten!!
In the winter I now unscrew the cable pull it out of the tube, clean and bag it for the winter.
Spring clean the tube, unwrap the cleaned grease cable reinstall.
Repeat every fall!! Been fine now for 10 years! You should never never have to do this more then once in a life time, if so Quit boating!!
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"All my friends are Flakes!!"
BOATLESS
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