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| Boat Fishing & Boating A new forum at Striped-Bass.com for those fishing from boats and for boating in general |
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05-01-2006, 09:56 AM
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#1
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Boat by Day Surf by Night
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: North Granby, CT
Posts: 301
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Striperman36 I have that exact rig shown in your Avatar less the T-top
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05-01-2006, 11:05 AM
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#2
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Uncle Remus
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
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Well removed the nut on the starboard side, turned the wheel and the shaft came out as far as the wheel would turn, about 10". The part of the shaft that the motor attaches too, has a flat milled on it and a thru hole for bolt to attach to motor via linkage did not move. Is there a shaft inside a shaft inside the tube? I banged on the what seems like the shaft inside the tube, the part the motor attaches to, and it did budge a little, pushing inside the tube. I need to get this thing out I assume. Lots of cruded up grease inside there. Do I continue to bang that end all the way out of the tube? P.
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"A beach is a place where a man can feel he's the only soul in the world that's real"
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05-01-2006, 12:51 PM
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#3
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Old Guy
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Mansfield, MA
Posts: 8,760
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It's exactly like mine but I have a 90 Johnson SPL
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05-03-2006, 07:42 AM
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#4
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zoom
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Quincy
Posts: 4,145
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Take it out the way it went in. Meaning by pulling the cable back out.
Sometimes when space is limited, they actually install the rod through the engine just before mounting the engine to the boat. This happend on mine so I just kept sutting it off. (but it was not frozen) Anyway, If thats the case it will not back out because its too stiff to make a sharp turn. (I hope not).
If so, a sharpie told me this trick. You may have to lean the engine out from the top bolts by replacing them (one at a time) with LONG carriage bolts and use them to tilt it back so that you now have a clear shot at the tilt tube. loosen the bottom bolts so it can tilt out, but dont take them out. Once leaning away from the transom, you can beat the crap out it easily, and reinstall easily too.
The old cable should have the size (length) printed on it, they don't go by just the length you can measure, there is some difference with the rod and stuff.
Good Luck
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~..~..~.. ><((((º>
Things done at the last possible minute are done with the greatest possible information. Procrastination is, therefore, the most efficient means of doing things.
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05-04-2006, 12:30 AM
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#5
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Seal Control
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Caver, Ma.
Posts: 3,875
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This happened to me once, only once!!~
I did all the above and finaly got it out by using 27 cans of PB Blaster (kidding) and a 5# hammer!
Took a few days, but came out just fine!~
After that I cleaned the tube well, added the grease nuts on the tube with new cable, grease offten!!
In the winter I now unscrew the cable pull it out of the tube, clean and bag it for the winter.
Spring clean the tube, unwrap the cleaned grease cable reinstall.
Repeat every fall!! Been fine now for 10 years! You should never never have to do this more then once in a life time, if so Quit boating!!
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"All my friends are Flakes!!"
BOATLESS 
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05-04-2006, 11:32 AM
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#6
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Uncle Remus
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
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Yup I learned my lesson. Actually thinking of upgrading to hydraulic. I found the whole set up for $495 on line, West Marine wants $700. Have to look at my cash flow,yeah right. Probably end up with the rack. Thanks again guys. Paul
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"A beach is a place where a man can feel he's the only soul in the world that's real"
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