Let's talk hulls - Striper Talk Striped Bass Fishing, Surfcasting, Boating

capesams · 08-07-2006, 11:07 AM

older hulls you can:

leave on a trailer for years without the fear of the rollers pushing the bottom in.

you can drill just about anywhere and only need washers to back up the bolt...not alum. plating or starboard or wood.

the sides don't flex like tin and won't spider crack.

punch a hole in anywhere and you have some meat that surrounds that hole to work with/repair.

they can take a pounding and keep on going.

I've seen half the bottom taken off of an older 23 seacraft by a floating log and it came home from offshore safe and sound[thick hull] wouldn't want to try that with a new boat / thin new an approved resin's.

keeperreaper · 08-07-2006, 11:53 AM

Amen.

When your miles offshore I like to know I'm riding a seaworthy safe overbuilt boat for peace of mind.

Krispy · 08-07-2006, 12:38 PM

Im just starting a long term project on a 20' Seacraft. You would not believe the amount of glass laid up on these boats. 35 years old, hull mint, stringers mint, floor solid, transom solid, not many boats built these days would last that long.

zacs · 08-07-2006, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krispy

...hull mint, stringers mint, floor solid, transom solid....

So whats the project? sounds like new power, some new electronics and maybe some paint and you are off to the races?

Krispy · 08-07-2006, 01:12 PM

converting the 650lb i/o thats sinking the scuppers 1.5 inches below the waterline to an o/b. Raising the floor 2" , repositiong the fuel tank forward and converting the cuddy (Seafari model) to a CC by cutting the top off and remolding the cap edges w/ supports. Will also need a few rib supports added into the hull as well.

JohnR · 08-07-2006, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krispy

converting the 650lb i/o thats sinking the scuppers 1.5 inches below the waterline to an o/b. Raising the floor 2" , repositiong the fuel tank forward and converting the cuddy (Seafari model) to a CC by cutting the top off and remolding the cap edges w/ supports. Will also need a few rib supports added into the hull as well.

Hey ND - take a look on CSC in Trayder's (he owns CSC) pics to get an idea on when he rebuilt his 20 from near scratch. In fact, when you are up in the NPT area I can probably arrange a quick Q&A with him plus seeing the boat if you are interested.... Good luck with that project...

JohnR · 08-07-2006, 01:59 PM

I'm not a nautical engineer like some here

but some of the advantages of the Seacraft hull is that because the longitudal steps decrease in deadrise from the center of the hull and out, you get a cushioning effect as the hull goes in the water with each outboard step flatter than the inside. So the advange is that you have a deep V center step but a more tame outermost step to mitigate some of the roll of a DeepV. The disadvantage is it still takes a lot of HP to get this hull (like most other deep Vs) up on plane and to remain on plane.

There are more than a few 20' boats with 90hp outboards that do OK but you'd need at least 115 on the 20 SC. The odd 23 footers have 175s but a 23SC is going to want 225 or more...

Krispy · 08-07-2006, 02:02 PM

Thanks John, I would really appreciate that. CSC is an incredible resource for anyone redoing any boat. Ive looked over Trayders pics a million times

as well as all of the other 20 projects, and have a good idea of the direction Im gonna go for each step.

Hooper · 08-13-2006, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capesams

older hulls you can:

leave on a trailer for years without the fear of the rollers pushing the bottom in.

you can drill just about anywhere and only need washers to back up the bolt...not alum. plating or starboard or wood.

the sides don't flex like tin and won't spider crack.

punch a hole in anywhere and you have some meat that surrounds that hole to work with/repair.

they can take a pounding and keep on going.

I've seen half the bottom taken off of an older 23 seacraft by a floating log and it came home from offshore safe and sound[thick hull] wouldn't want to try that with a new boat / thin new an approved resin's.

'Nuff said

danno1 · 08-17-2006, 02:24 PM

What do you guys think about the ride in a 83 21 Mako ? I just bought one, and would like some feed back on it

Krispy · 08-17-2006, 02:57 PM

HiLiners 22'
Awesome looking boats

PS. I chopped the cap at the transom on Tuesday, and will be cutting the rest of the engine box out Friday night. I may be able to use part of it as a splash well. Im still attempting to remove the volvo i/o, this things got bolts in the most awkward places. Theres been some previous work done in the back, some of it sloppy. So far the transom wood looks solid, we'll get a better idea after the outdrive gets removed.
Saturday I plan on doing the rough cut to remove the cuddy and begin removing the floor down to the stringers.
My wifes back

(she took the my new camera), so Ill post some pics over the wekend

capesams · 08-17-2006, 03:26 PM

they shore r....most that I've seen around here have been turned into cc...there's one not far from me that the guy put a dog house on and a new 225 honda on a bracket.Two other's r just like your pic and a third one is being rebuilt, another cc.

danno1 · 08-17-2006, 03:45 PM

If that`s the pic that`s showing, it`s a NICE looking rig. How do these boats compare ride wise ?

capesams · 08-17-2006, 07:22 PM

I'm sorry to say I've never been in a mako or hy-liner,,,what I watch is when the offshore jigger's go out an come back in later, I take note of their ride's....seacraft//hy-liner//capecodder...around here anyway's....these folk's work every day on their boat's, so they must know what works as to what hull's are best.