POURING LEAD ????? - Striper Talk Striped Bass Fishing, Surfcasting, Boating

STRIPER77 · 04-09-2002, 01:37 AM

I fish lead -- alot. I'd like to start pouring my own. I'm sure someone here has or still does melt lead. My question is--- What's the safest, best, tried and true way to do this ?? Also, what type of pot/melter should I look for ? I'll be pouring 1/2 to 1 1/2 oz. heads. THANKS FOR ANY INFO!!!

Bob Thomas · 04-09-2002, 10:04 AM

Greetings 77,

I pour quite a bit of lead so I may be able to help ya a bit. The safest is to pour outside, wearing a mask, smock and gloves. The easiest is to just pour outside and not to worry about the mask, smock and gloves. Try not to inhale the fumes or to handle the lead as much as possible. I use a spoon for placing my lead "Ingots" into the pot.

I use a Lee 10lb production pot. I should have gone with the 20 lb pot, though. Would save a bit of time. Make sure you have an old spoon and coffee can handy. From time to time, you have to clear the "Slag" (misc. junk that collects on the surface of the hot lead) from the top and dump it. An old spoon works well to clear it and a coffee can works well to hold the junk.

I also usually have a flat head screwdriver handy (for clearing the spout) a set of needle nose pliars (for removing jigheads from a mold when they stick) and some wire to stick into the spout to clear any debris that builds up.

Just be careful...the stuff really gets hot.......I know

TackleMaking · 08-20-2002, 01:57 PM

I agree...you really can't beat a Lee Production Pot. For molds, you have a few options. The main one is Do-It Molds (http://www.do-itmolds.com) or Hilts (http://www.hiltsmolds.com). Hilts seems to carry more saltwater sizes.

You can also make your own mold from Plaster of Paris. But if you do, make sure your coat the mold with a glossy enamel paint prior to using it or else you'll get a dull coat on the lead.

Most people use clay to make the design and then let it dry. Then pour plaster 1/2 way covering it and let that dry. Then add a thin layer of Vaseline to the top and pour on the second half of plaster and let it dry. Pull the halves apart, wipe off the vaseline, remove the clay design. Coat with glossy enamel (black) and let the paint dry. Cut in your sprue holes and you're ready to pour!

- Erik

Goose · 08-20-2002, 04:05 PM

Wouldn't a cast iron pot work the same??

TackleMaking · 08-20-2002, 07:24 PM

Absolutely. You can use a cast iron pot with the same results. The main benefit of the Lee pot is that you can control the flow of the lead easier (it has a bottom pour spout that you just put up to the mold and open) - with the pot, you run the risk of missing the pour into the holes.

But either will work fine.

- Erik

capesams · 08-20-2002, 10:32 PM

I thought hilts went ca-put,outta bis. .....they back?

TackleMaking · 08-21-2002, 08:33 AM

Yup! A company called "Dolphin Sports" bought up their lead mold business and is bringing their product line back (except the melters). Their new owner is Mike Ford, a great guy to deal with. You can see their mold catalog online at http://www.hiltsmolds.com.

- Erik

Canalratt1 · 08-21-2002, 11:18 AM

If your going to pour alot get a bottom pouring pot. I have a 20lb. Lee's and pour jigs up to 5 ozs. I have already payed for the pot from selling some jigs. Not all lead is the same, I use all types of scrap from tire weights (not good!) to flashing (good Stuff). The best is plumbers lead which is almost pure. Pour outside! The fumes are dangerous.

thill · 09-30-2002, 01:02 AM

Side burner for a propane grill works GREAT. So does a burner for an outdoor fryer. I got one from Bass Pro for $29. Gave the pot to my wife. Also got a small cast iron pouring pot, and an assortment of DoIt! molds.

I get my lead from old lead shower pans. SILKY SMOOTH! The best anyone I know has ever seen. Has some kind of additive that is better than even pure lead. If you know a contractor, tell him to NEVER throw another away!

Flashing may be similar, but I don't know.

I set the burner up outside on my patio, and have a plywood table to pour on. Very fast and easy. I will probably never buy a jig again. Powder paint is easy, too, if you care.

The more I jig, the less I think paint matters. I think I actually do better with plain lead heads.

Don't overheat your lead, and don't sniff it.

Stay safe, and enjoy!

TH

STRIPER77 · 09-30-2002, 07:56 PM

Thanks for the info thill. I haven't taken the plunge yet, but I'm getting close.

STRIPER77 · 09-30-2002, 08:11 PM

My apologies--because it's been awhile, I only thanked the last post. I'd sincerely like to thank everyone who's posted here. I've printed it out (4pages) and I'll be going from all that info. Thanks alot to all of you.

thill · 10-01-2002, 06:18 AM

You are very welcome, but I warn you, it is kind of addictive at first!

Don't get into selling them for a little while. That can come later. Don't want to kill your joy too soon.

That happened to me, and I suddenly I HAD to get X hundred flawless jigs done and powder painted, and it changes everything. It DID make me good at it, but now, I only pour when I NEED jigs.

Enjoy your pouring, and remember to wash your hands with dishwashing liquid after playing with lead. You are most likely to get lead in your system that way, from what I read.

TH

Captain Bottom · 10-07-2002, 03:30 PM

At the company I work for, we use lead as part of the production processs. All of the people in the plant are given blood tests regularly ( every 6 months). The person who has the highest lead content does not come in contact with it at work. He does all of his own reloading. Just by handling lead without protection it can be absorbed through your skin.
By the way, OSHA limit for lead content is 40 ppm in blood. Lead is filtered / absorbed by bone marrow where it can take 6-10 years to work its way out of your system. Avoid the fumes, wear latex gloves (if possible) and definitely wash hands well after pouring.
One other thing I didn't see mentioned....If your just getting started pouring lead be very careful not be pouring outside in wet weather.. drops of water and hot lead can be VERY EXPLOSIVE.

Not trying to be alarmist, just informative.

Captain Bottom

fishsmith · 10-07-2002, 03:48 PM

That's some comforting reading, makes me think about all the little lead weights I would bite onto the line real tight as kid to make sure they wouldn't slip. Hopefully all the alcohol I've consumed since then has cleansed the ol system some.

MikeF · 10-10-2002, 04:30 PM

Let me just re-emphasize what Capt Bottom said. One drop of water will transform that pot of molten lead into a bomb.

If you don't believe me, you can ask my Dad to see the ceiling of his garage. The ceiling decorations have been as long lasting as the memory of that day.

Saltheart · 10-10-2002, 04:46 PM

IMO the biggest mistake people make pouring lead is getting it too hot. the amount of fumes coming off the lead is like a square of the temp above the melting point. That means you get about 100 times more fumes if you are 400 degrees above the melting point than if you are just 100 dgerees above the melting point. if the jigs don't fill the mold , don't up the lead temp....preheat the mold instead. Also turn the setting down on the automatic lead pits whenthe pots gets about 1/2 empty. the temp of the remaining lead goes up when the pot is not full and this sets it fumimg heavily. We always pour outside. never pour lead with small children around.Lead is bad for adults but for some reason , babies and kids suck up the lead fumes like a sponge. In a child , lead leads to permanent brain damage. Don't take any chances.

OldJohn · 10-10-2002, 07:39 PM

Gotta add my voice to those who like the Lee Production Pot. I got the 10-pound pot last spring and love it. Not just for pouring in jig/sinker molds, but I also sometimes pour direct into belly-weight holes bored in unfinished plug bodies. The lever-actuated spout at the pot bottom makes this easy to do...and a heck of a lot easier than the tin can and propane torch I used to use....
--OJ