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StriperTalk! All things Striper |
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01-16-2007, 09:52 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: RI
Posts: 429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim sylvester
best set-up i've used or seen yet
the key that decksweeper and I found out ( the hard way  , is to lock the insert into the boot with a 1 1/4 " screw, right through the innersole and the felt as well
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Jim:
I also figured that trick out mid-season this past year with my Korkers Outfitters Boots after 2 seasons of occasional sole pop-offs and after the rear locking D-ring corroded off one of the boots. Works Great now!!
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01-16-2007, 10:36 PM
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#2
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...
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: MA/RI
Posts: 2,411
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Is the screw inserted thru the inner sole at the heel area which then goes thru the felt sole ?
Is the screw secured enough so that it will not back up into the heel of your foot if you stepped on a rock just right ?
Where does the removable soles pop off from, the front, sides or back side of the boot?
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01-17-2007, 10:29 AM
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#3
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<><><><><><><>
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: somewhere on a rock
Posts: 1,603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redsoxticket
Is the screw inserted thru the inner sole at the heel area which then goes thru the felt sole ?
Is the screw secured enough so that it will not back up into the heel of your foot if you stepped on a rock just right ?
Where does the removable soles pop off from, the front, sides or back side of the boot?
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drill your pilot hole for the bolt towards the middle of the shoe, if you put the bolt towards the heel the insert may still "pop out on you.
lock the bolt down woth a washer and nut...its not going anywhere
you can also put a washer on the innersole side (bolt head) if you want
they pop from the toe
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01-17-2007, 12:09 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Wakefield, RI
Posts: 315
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Definitely needed for rock-hopping
I just would not go on the rocks without my korkers. Like someone mentioned above, it doesn't mean that you won't slip, but it definitely means that the likelihood of it happening is seriously reduced, and that, if you do go down, the studs are going to help you to get purchase during that all-important period of trying to stop the inexorable slide toward the water and get back out of the wave's reach !! (Been there, done that, and VERY glad to have the korkers).
I use the 1100's, which are the lace-up ones. These are a lot cheaper than the 5500's (buckle), are much lighter, and feel more secure with a double knot, IMHO. I have been told me that there have been times when waves/rocks etc have resulted in buckles self-releasing, which is not a good feeling at any point on the rocks....
The studs appear to wear down reeeeally fast, but the replacement tool and spare studs has been a great investment - I check them before each foray on the rocks, and it takes a minute or so to replace with new ones, once you have the hang of it. Last season I went through a bag of 15 or so studs. Just knowing that all of them were working well is a good feeling at dark-thirty perched on a rock!
I know it comes down to a personal choice, but my choice is that I will not go on the rocks without them!! 
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"When you stare into the abyss....wink. It'll confuse the hell out of it."
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01-17-2007, 12:11 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: plymouth,ma
Posts: 1,142
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I did the screw thing last year. And for a while it was ok, but as soon
as the tips of the screws get rounded they are not sharp enough to dig in and on a tilted rock you start sliding around. Not good.
Last fall I bought a pair of boots that had felt soles and for bare rock they were better than my korkers with the screws, but not as good as the original korkers.
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01-17-2007, 12:45 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Freeport, N.Y.
Posts: 12
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korkers
I always liked a workmans rubber with a dozen golf spikes in each one to be better than the korker. You use a workmans rubber one size smaller than your wader boot foot so it will fit tight. Because they have a flat wide bottom "sole"they travel well walking in the sand. They are easy to make. An outfit called walts walkers use to make them but I think they are gone now. Just my 2 cents.
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01-17-2007, 02:51 PM
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#7
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Respect your elvers
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: franklin ma
Posts: 3,368
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I used to use corkers all the time until I got felt sole waders. They provide plenty of traction, unless you are on bubble weed. Most of the rocks I fish are just moss covered or dry, and I don't feel the corkers provide much added protection. I do keep a good set of gladiator korkers in the vehicle at all times just in case, but they seem to get less and less use as I become more comfortable with the felts. Biggest reason behind my declining corker use is that I used to trip and fall/stumble in them too often for my liking. Had many more hazardous situations with them than without. Don't take my word as gospel, though. Use your common sense and most importantly,do what works best for your situation.
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01-17-2007, 05:50 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: cape cod when my meds r workin right
Posts: 1,412
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korker why
ok boys heres my 2 cents.......ive been using felts first then found out about korkes, about 30yrs ago... been through about 4or5 pairs so far...... best ones are the custon fit to your boot size model k-5000 w/screw in replaceable carbine studs.... buy them new and take and remove studds and reinstall studds w a dab of good glue on the threads....most times studs will stay for life.... as for price,,, how much is a pair of ripped boots worth, or a gash on the head, in the middle or the night... there also good for ice cleats...... 
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01-19-2007, 06:57 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Shrewsbury,ma
Posts: 369
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I love my 1100's. Just replace the laces with good parachute cord. Only had to replace 1 stud last year and added a few more studs last week for good measure. I've heard of problems with the 5000's.
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Big Daddy-Bob Sr.
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