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Rod Building So, you've landed a nice fish on a plug you made, eh? Now, the next step, building your own RODS! |
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02-07-2007, 06:59 AM
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#1
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Jiggin' Leper Lawyer
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: 61° 30′ 0″ N, 23° 46′ 0″ E
Posts: 8,158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luds48
i don't trust anything I hear at this point. I've heard so many stories. Maybe Mike P can shed some light.
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Trust the other mike, too
If you're looking for one all purpose 9' blank, you can't do better than the SW 1088. The only thing I think I'd like better is a 10' Lami 120 1L with a foot chopped from the butt--but you'd have to accept not having a warranty on the blank.
As a general rule, the SW Rainshadows are a little more parabolic than the SU series. They're pretty close to the original Sabres--in fact, the 8'10" Made in USA versions were built in the same factory as the old Sabres, and probably on the same mandrels. The SU series is a little faster action. They're modeled after All Star blanks. People who've used both All Stars and SU Rainshadows seem to say that the Rainshadow has a softer feel to it, at least with respect to the 1209 
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Wise men speak because they have something to say; Fools, because they have to say something.
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02-07-2007, 09:18 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 842
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if you are steadily casting between 2.5-3 ounce, i'd jump up a series in power for a rod. most 1088's-type blanks can take up to 3, but you start to push them a little and they are faster action rods, which for some do not lend well as eeling rods.
the gsb1081m is more moderate action. better for eels, but again, tops off at about 3. some people have no problem pushing the rod over 3 slightly, but 3 is about the top end, with 2.5 ideal top end.
i'll have to lean w/ mike p's recommendation on the gsb1201L cut, either from the tip and/or butt. moderate action and not overly expensive. again, cutting a blank will void your warrenty.
all star no longer manufacturers blanks to sell. their original sw-series blanks, which most refer to, were fairly fast action rods. rainshadows su-series blanks were modeled after this series. rainshadows sw-series were slightly less fast, but still fast in action overall. they also have slightly less power for the same model in the su-series. the su-series rainshadows are all graphite. the sw-series are composite.
i have yet to find the perfect rod in 9' from a manufacturer that can handle lure ranges typically asked for, as is here, in 10' models, but as a 9'. rogue makes one, but i don't endorse it.
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02-07-2007, 09:39 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,990
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Dave, what happens to the 1201m when its cut 1' from the butt? Does it hold the same action? Or is it to stiff for a 9'er?
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Sooner or later you're going to realize just as I did that there's a difference between knowing the path and walking the path. - Morpheus
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02-07-2007, 11:45 AM
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#4
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Respect your elvers
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: franklin ma
Posts: 3,368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krispy
Dave, what happens to the 1201m when its cut 1' from the butt? Does it hold the same action? Or is it to stiff for a 9'er?
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Throw it in the trash or give it to me. 
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02-07-2007, 02:34 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krispy
Dave, what happens to the 1201m when its cut 1' from the butt? Does it hold the same action? Or is it to stiff for a 9'er?
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krispy, although i've never done that on this particular blank, experience tells me that the action will be pushed further down the blank and you will lose a little of the loading properties. it will feel stiffer, but mainly due to losing those loading properties. you remember that 9' jetty rod i usually throw that has a size 16 tip? well, that rod used to be 10' and is 1' shorter, all from the tip. you wouldn't think that rod would be as versitile as it is, but it my favorite jetty rod for heavy tide rips and big bass. if i was to try and mimic that rod again, it would be done using the gsb1201m and cutting mostly form the tip. for what i think you want, all off the butt might work. just send some of those johnny wads my way...
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02-07-2007, 04:06 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Winthrop Ma
Posts: 95
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To me it sounds like you're on a budget...if so, go with the SW1088 it's a sweet blank not the SU1088, the latter is much too stiff for the applications you mentioned.
BUT, if you want THE stick I'd go with 120L minus a foot or just as is.
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02-08-2007, 12:33 PM
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#7
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Jiggin' Leper Lawyer
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: 61° 30′ 0″ N, 23° 46′ 0″ E
Posts: 8,158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaWolf
krispy, although i've never done that on this particular blank, experience tells me that the action will be pushed further down the blank and you will lose a little of the loading properties. it will feel stiffer, but mainly due to losing those loading properties. .
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I've always noticed that cutting a rod from the butt makes it feel stiffer, but never quite grasped the mechanics of why. Thanks for the explanation.
One of these days I want to try a 120 1L with the tip cut back to a size 12 or 14 and the remainder of a foot off the butt. I'm always looking for that "do-anything" 9 footer that's almost identical to the Fisher 8708 I never had a chance to buy 
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Wise men speak because they have something to say; Fools, because they have to say something.
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02-08-2007, 01:38 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
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Rods
Before I would cut any rod down, I would tape some guides and a reel to it and make a few casts, everyone has a different feel when picking a rod up, what may be good for one, will not be the same for another, and when you start cutting, why not take a little off at a time until you reach the desired feel. Good Luck!
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