simple jig for holding hydro oriented plugs square

[numbskull]

Here is how I do it.
Turn to size,
drill belly holes (measure exactly)
then cut lip on tablesaw using this jig.

[numbskull]

Next I use a sled/jig to mark out the slope square to the lip/hook holes

[numbskull]

Then take the sled with the plug in it to the band saw and rough out (I've experimented with a pattern guide to cut things to finish size but don't like the result)

[numbskull]

Finally I take the plug to the belt sander and smooth off the slope. The sander will free the remaining part of the face when it reaches the tablesaw cut.

Not very efficient, but it works.

Note, I think there is a potential problem with hydro-orienting darters and bottles. The grain often ends up horizontal across the lip, rather than vertical. If the plug hits bottom, as darters often do, the lip shears off unless the grain is vertical. I also think, but am not sure, maple is more likely to split when the hook holes pass perpendicularly through the grain lines, rather than parallel to the grain lines. If I've got this wrong, I'm going to be very unhappy in a few months. Anybody know for sure?

[Diggin Jiggin]

George thats slick. I wanted a darter with only 1 belly hook and without the hole for a second belly hole I needed something else to hold the back end.
.
I was thinking of roughing the slopes on the bandsaw and trying to make a template for my router and use a flush cutting bit to follow a template and do the finish cutting but I'll have to be real confident in the jig I make before I try that. I like the router and use it for a lot of stuff but its the second scariest tool in my shop just behind the table saw...

[numbskull]

Another way I've seen people do it. You can drill a small pilot hole where the belly hook will go then use a L shaped piece of wood (with squared sides) with a hole in each limb of the L. Screw the plug on through the long limb, then center the tail by screwing into the wire hole through the short limb. Use a piece of aluminum angle stock and cut your slope and lip shape into it. Use it to mark the plug blank while in the jig and take it to the band saw and cut it all. Clean up on the sander, and enlarge the screw hole in the belly to grommet size. Credit to Eddy for this one.

[Diggin Jiggin]

Originally Posted by numbskull

Finally I take the plug to the belt sander and smooth off the slope. The sander will free the remaining part of the face when it reaches the tablesaw cut.

Not very efficient, but it works.

Note, I think there is a potential problem with hydro-orienting darters and bottles. The grain often ends up horizontal across the lip, rather than vertical. If the plug hits bottom, as darters often do, the lip shears off unless the grain is vertical. I also think, but am not sure, maple is more likely to split when the hook holes pass perpendicularly through the grain lines, rather than parallel to the grain lines. If I've got this wrong, I'm going to be very unhappy in a few months. Anybody know for sure?

I hadn't really thought about that but when I make metal lipped swimmers I always cut the lip slot cut perpindicular to the grain so the lip won't split the blank.

[NIB]

Originally Posted by numbskull

Finally I take the plug to the belt sander and smooth off the slope. The sander will free the remaining part of the face when it reaches the tablesaw cut.

Not very efficient, but it works.

Note, I think there is a potential problem with hydro-orienting darters and bottles. The grain often ends up horizontal across the lip, rather than vertical. If the plug hits bottom, as darters often do, the lip shears off unless the grain is vertical. I also think, but am not sure, maple is more likely to split when the hook holes pass perpendicularly through the grain lines, rather than parallel to the grain lines. If I've got this wrong, I'm going to be very unhappy in a few months. Anybody know for sure?

I have always made em with the belly holes through the grain.I have had some split and some not..