Building the double J..

[Rockfish9]

the first picture is of the jig I made specificlay for making this plug,it's been modified a few times but it serves several funtions, a dowel centerd 7/16" near the front holds the plug in place as I cut the lip slot, because the pikie 1 lip is so thin, I use the scroll saw instead of the table top band saw to cut this slot....

the lip slot is 5/16" deep in the plug, it would be too simple to mark it while I was laying out the plug, so I end up holding the lip to the plug most of the time...

once the lip slot is cut, install the lip andwith an awl, mark the center of the throgh wire...with a hand drill, drill a 5/32" hole at an upwards angle into the fron hook hole, this allows the use of a #1 swivel without it hanging down like an untucked shirt...

Making the V cut... the V not only makes the plug stream line, but by using a tight joint, the sides rattle as the plug swims along, slapping from side to side, this was by design, as I tried my best to make a rattle work on this plug, normaly, I instal them between the eyes, no could do here, just too narrow, so the next best thing.. a working body... this wouldnt be possible if the plug were not epoxied...

continued in the next frame:

[Rockfish9]

so, with you fence set up on your band saw, the plug on the jig, make you 70 degree cut, move the fence, put the plug on the opposite pin and cut the other side, I leave approx 1/8" on each edge, I sometime make a few straight cuts on the band saw before moving to the scroll saw ( a coping saw also can be used) I then clean out ( rough) the cut with the scroll saw, afterwards, I finish the slot with a small sanding drum on a demel tool, be sure to round out the edges, or they will be brittle ( the mape gives them strength this was another reason I went to the maple laminate) and not hold the epoxy well...

[Rockfish9]

the rear seaction is done a little differently, again, it is placed on a pin on the fixture, starting at the mark, I draw the plug towards the front of the rear section,leaving a 1/8" space from center... I repeat on the other side...

Once the "V" cuts are finished, a hole is drilled in the lower half of the front section for your belly weight, in my case, I drilled a 15/64 hole 1 1/8" deep to accomodate the 4 grams of lead, the weight was then installed and the hole sealed with elmers 2 part epoxy, wood repair putty, I also use the 5 minute 2 part putty made by lock tite, it comes in a tube and you slice off a chunk, mix it up and it's good to go in just a few minutes, I use this when I'm only doing a few pugs, for big jobs, and an extended working time, I use the elmers...

the tail section gets a 2 grams of lead, the hole I drill is 1/4"X 1/2" deep.... once the weight is installed, I fill the hole with epoxy filer and push a wire down through it, then pull it back out.. when the putty hardens, I use a counter sink to open up the end so once installed,I can use a tail gromet...

Enough for tonight... tomorrow night, I'll go through the epoxy sealing, painting and wiring....

[Mugz]

Great Tutorial.......PISSAH. Love the jigs. I'm going to steal your idea on the jigs. Definitely one of my weak points figuring out how to make jigs work.

[Raven]

can't wait for round 2
and seeing Double-J Bass
thanks JOE! So glad your in
a Sharing Mood