O0ooooiiiivey !!!!!

[VTBasser]

I make my weight molds out of 1x3 red oak from the depot.

I make a top that acts like the gate and the bottom is the mold.

See pic.

Clamp it all together first and drill the holes for the pins. Remove the top and use a counter sink bit for the well. Drill the mold hole. Use pins in the molds to align the top and attach the top. A couple of nails used as alignment pins help.

Clamp together, insert pins and pour quickly. That neck that the gate makes makes it easy to break off the extra. The wide deep well gives you time to stop the pour. The come out nice and uniform in size and weight.

[Grapenuts]

Tagger


1......preheat your mold to hot..

2......after melting your lead..skim off the crap that floats to the surface in your pot.it will mess up a good pour.

3.....the pouring spout on those are to round and wide....file or grind a nice shape "V" into it....lead always flows abit wider then the snoot it's being poured out of on hand ladles.

[PNG]

Originally Posted by Grapenuts

Tagger


1......preheat your mold to hot..

2......after melting your lead..skim off the crap that floats to the surface in your pot.it will mess up a good pour.

3.....the pouring spout on those are to round and wide....file or grind a nice shape "V" into it....lead always flows abit wider then the snoot it's being poured out of on hand ladles.

Concur and to add I preheat the mold with map gas and keep heating it throughout...

The pull wire should be perfect like a SS welding wire to the dia. of the hole prob 1/8?

[Tagger]

thanks ,,,, all that will help ..

[Fishpart]

This stuff works pretty well as a release. In a previous life I used it on Sterling Silver starter bars up to about 1500 F.

Sprayon Dry Film Graphite

http://www.mcmaster.com/#1289k17/=1nn8c6