Hawaii's Big Wave compititon

[Crafty Angler]

Originally Posted by agsurfr

Crafty--

You surf??



ab

Yeah - it'll be 47 years next summer if I'm still ambulatory by then...

Mostly on a Morey Boogie twin fin these days because
of serious back problems - but I did break out my 8'2" Nectar noserider for a swell this fall with no ill effects - Gary shaped it for me himself shortly before his stint at the Crowbar Hotel

I really enjoyed Riding Giants because of the perspective of the veterans like Greg Noll, Lopez, Billy Hamilton and the others on what's happening today - it's come a long way in terms of performance

Hell, the first board I rode was a 9'8" Greg Noll with triple redwood stringers and an inlaid glassed wooden skeg

Yeah, that was a while ago...

[agsurfr]

Crafty--

You've got me beat by, well--let's say a wide margin. I didn't start surfing until I was in my 40's. Something about sitting on the board, looking out at the swells, feeling the rise and fall. I discovered it to be harder than it looks and more fun than it looks.

With respect to the old timers, Noll and some of the others were every bit as fearless as these big wave guys are now. Imagine paddling into some of those beasts with a heavy wood monster, no jet skiis to sling you or rescue you when the bad thing happens, no life vests--yeesh. I cannot imagine it then or now. Never seen huge surf in person and I've only surfed NE. My philosophy is when it's over my head I'm in over my head. Enjoyed some good storm surf this summer on MV. Love to see Mavericks, from the cliff! I guess now is about the time. Just the sound of that surf sends chills down my spine.

Don't suppose you still have that Noll board??

ab