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Crafty--
You've got me beat by, well--let's say a wide margin. I didn't start surfing until I was in my 40's. Something about sitting on the board, looking out at the swells, feeling the rise and fall. I discovered it to be harder than it looks and more fun than it looks.
With respect to the old timers, Noll and some of the others were every bit as fearless as these big wave guys are now. Imagine paddling into some of those beasts with a heavy wood monster, no jet skiis to sling you or rescue you when the bad thing happens, no life vests--yeesh. I cannot imagine it then or now. Never seen huge surf in person and I've only surfed NE. My philosophy is when it's over my head I'm in over my head. Enjoyed some good storm surf this summer on MV. Love to see Mavericks, from the cliff! I guess now is about the time. Just the sound of that surf sends chills down my spine.
Don't suppose you still have that Noll board??
ab
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