Wiring = headaches

[MrHunters]

do it right the first time. make sure everything is neat and organized. it gets out of control quick (don't take a look at the back of my entertainment center )

last year I switched from all in line fuses to a fuse box with the glass fuses. I was always worried about blowing one and not knowing where the f it was.

the specialist and gary have the rest covered. marine grade wire is important. More strands help with flexing.

i think it's kind of fun turning a rats nest into something nice to look at.

[Goose]

Originally Posted by MrHunters

i think it's kind of fun turning a rats nest into something nice to look at.

Mine is nice to look at and still doesn't work like its supposed to. I'm embraced to say it but even running lights I sux at.
Do you guys use dielectric grease on the fuses themselves?

[Roger]

Originally Posted by Goose

Do you guys use dielectric grease on the fuses themselves?

You can, but i usually use a product like OxGard for fuses, crimps and other attachments. Like dielectric grease, it protects against corrosion. Unlike dielectric grease, it conducts electricity.

I reserve dielectric grease for things like electronic connectors where the pins are close.

[beamie]

Don't get too hung up on "Marine Grade" wire or anything. Just make sure it is good quality and tinned. It is hard to beat the prices on wire and stuff at genuinedeals.com or something like that for wire. They do have "marine" wire.

When crimping on steak-ons I always squit some corrosion resistant paste in before crimping.

At my job the last few years we have been using this product ....Cortec ECO238 | VCI Cleaners have started using it on the boat too to spray the backside of electrical switch panels. This also comes in an emitting cup if you have an enclosed electrical space. This really helps with corrosion resistance over time.

If your renewing battery cables I would suggest the solder type lugs and shrinkwrap as opposed to big crimped lugs. Less corrosion issues over time.

[massgc]

Had my old boat completly repowered and wired. It's amazing what a good shop can do.

[Mr. Sandman]

I am doing a lot of wiring myself this year. The one main problem I see when joe-sixpack re-wires his boat is he uses the WRONG type of wire. Make 100% sure you use TINNED copper wire made for marine applications on everything...even your boat stereo! And as mentioned above invest in a lot of top quality ***marine*** connectors (which are also tin plated copper) that have heat shrink tubing. Those cheap connectors with exposed copper wire will crap out in no time...almost as soon as they get damp they corrode. The problem with corrosion with those copper wires/connectors is they increase resistance alot and cause a lot of problems. Just bite the bullet and get the right wire and connectors. Never use wire you bought at the hardware store even though it is the right gauge. Get the right stuff. If you do it right it will really last and be trouble free for a loooong time, cheap out and you will not get thru the season. Trust me on this one!

You always can tell when a pro does it...he has done the subtle things, proper drip loops, super neat, never cuts corners using cheap materials. It costs you but IMO it is worth it to have it done right. (The last thing you want is to have everything burn out in the middle of the night, esp in a bad spot, and you turn on you flashlight and enter a bird's nest of confused wires, it takes time to do it right or you have to pay someone who knows what he is really doing)

Also there are a couple good books on re-wring:

1) Boatowner's illustrated electrical handbook by Charlie Wing is a good easy to understand book on everything marine electrical AC/DC/battery details alternators corrosion control...etc, Lots of pictures and tables.

2) The Marine Electrical electronics bible by John Payne is also good but it is more like a text book but it covers a lot of topics in depth.