lamiglas gsb 132-1 L

[castmasterflash]

Originally Posted by scottw

I built on this blank with help from George using his guide layout but I used low riders for the first two guides and bmnag's for the rest...best rod that I ever owned, skipped the reel seat and it was the lightest most sensitive rod imaginable, threw everything I need to throw plugwise and was a great bucktailing stick...it's at the bottom of the sea right now thanks to a big wave but I'm diving today to try to retrieve it...anyway 1321L with George's low rider guide layout is a tremendous stick...

I wrapped a 132 1L last year with low riders guides, tried a bunch of different layouts and ended up putting the stripper guide at 46" because of hte reel i was using. It casted very far but kind of took away from the feel i was looking for when fighting a fish or working a pencil.

Mind sharing the spacing layout George used on your rod??

[scottw]

Originally Posted by castmasterflash

I wrapped a 132 1L last year with low riders guides, tried a bunch of different layouts and ended up putting the stripper guide at 46" because of hte reel i was using. It casted very far but kind of took away from the feel i was looking for when fighting a fish or working a pencil.

Mind sharing the spacing layout George used on your rod??

I can....or George might...he might have some new info... and I don't know if this helps Skip but I didn't use any thread building the rod, the guides were attached entirely using adhesive backed shrink tube...it was an easy fast build, incredibly durable, I swim with that rod on every trip(around 100) and it handled fish to 42lbs without any problem and I really beat the crap out of it...I checked the guides regularly for issues and cracking of the flex coat as this was experimental and it held up perfectly...I guess I'm just saying that it was a very effective and fast way to build a durable rod without having to learn thread wrapping

[Nebe]

Originally Posted by scottw

I can....or George might...he might have some new info... and I don't know if this helps Skip but I didn't use any thread building the rod, the guides were attached entirely using adhesive backed shrink tube...it was an easy fast build, incredibly durable, I swim with that rod on every trip(around 100) and it handled fish to 42lbs without any problem and I really beat the crap out of it...I checked the guides regularly for issues and cracking of the flex coat as this was experimental and it held up perfectly...I guess I'm just saying that it was a very effective and fast way to build a durable rod without having to learn thread wrapping

I'm surprised you didn't try wrapping thread knowing what you do for a living. It's very easy.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

[scottw]

Originally Posted by Nebe

I'm surprised you didn't try wrapping thread knowing what you do for a living. It's very easy.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

I did on a loomis blank 10'6" the previous year, but got bored with the wrapping so it looked nice for a little while and then went to hell...this rod required only a butt cap, adhesive lined shrink tube on the butt/handle, reel taped on..no seat.. and guides attached w/the shrink tube.... a coat of flexcoat tinted black over the wraps...tried to go the simplest possible route
the important thing was George's guide layout...he described this particular blank as a "dog" with a traditional guide layout

[numbskull]

I'm happy to give you the measurements on the GSB1321L, but I suspect it can be improved on.

The reel STEM is at 22.5", this turns out to be too short and I would move it forward 1-2" if (or more likely when) I do it again. The reel seat is a Fuji NPS 20. These are much more comfortable than standard DPS seats, and have a slight flat to each side that helps with rod stability while casting.

All the guides are T-LCSG's and the tip is T-MNST. They will cost you as much as the blank....and are worth every penny. The regular LCSG guides are heavy, the alconite version may be lighter but I don't know. I use my rods for decades and an extra $100 upfront cost becomes insignificant when balanced against the thousands of hours I'll be fishing it.

The collector is a 20 TLCSG set (reversed) at the standard 47". I've since learned through experience that this is unnecessary (at least with a ZB25) and if you move the reel seat forward I think I'd just subtract the distance from the collector (rather than move the collector further out).

The guide sequence is tip-8-8-10-12-16-20
The distances from the tip ring are
6.5"-13 5/8"-22.5"-33.5"-46.25"-63 5/8"

I used xflock shrink grip over cork tape for the grips.

Now, all this said, there is another way to do this using TLCSG as the first three guides to cone down to small running guides (either TKLSG or TKWSG) that makes the rod even lighter.
I posted a thread in the rod building section about a 1201L a while back that will give you an idea what you can do......just start with a 20 instead of a 16m if you plan to use a full sized reel (pm me if you need other details). Here is the link http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripert...lowriders.html

I hated spinning tackle because of tip weight (which is awful with standard guides when you need to drop parallel to the water to work a plug right) , but these titanium guides and small guide systems with braid now let me fish rods that are as light and sensitive as the conventional stuff I depended on for decades. There are some tradeoffs. Knot and weed clearance suffers with these little guides....but seems worth it to me.