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CC401
I am by now means an expert, and I have literally pulled my hair out with frustration. This works for ME and I have encountered the same issues you have. These steps have resulted in crystal clear, rock hard finishes and practically zero failures.
I have had the same issue happen to my E-tex at times and I have also had it cloudy. I ran myself ragged trying to determine if it was too humid, too cold, bad lot of E-tex, etc.
My final conclusion: I was not mixing the small amounts correctly (not truly 50/50)
1. In the winter my finishing area is around 65 degrees, I turn on a small space heater about an hour before I'm going to clear the baits.
2. I place the resin and hardner bottles very close to the heater and turn them at times to get them warm (they are reading when they both are warm to the touch and flow/pour easily)
3. Use small graduated mixing cups, pour resin slowly on a leveling tray or surface and let it lay down and level. Add hardner on top and pour slowly so it will level out to exactly where you want it.
4. Mix well for 2 minutes, transfer to a new mixing container, mix again for and additional 2 minutes. Do not worry about bubbles (more on that later).
5. After mixing pour out onto an old ceramic plate (also warmed near the heater), with a layer of tinfoil over it.
6. This will make a very thin layer of well mixed E-tex. This have a couple of advantages. It will extend the working time of the E-tex because it will lower the amount of heat generated by the reaction between the resin and hardner. (a large mix left in a mixing cup can get pretty hot and then it sets up FAST). The thin layer will also leave the bubbles created while mixing very close to the surface and hence easy to escape.
7. I cover the plate and let sit for 5-10 minutes. You will have virtually zero bubbles after this time frame and the frustrating electrostatic charge that the reaction has and its propensity to attract dust will be greatly reduced.
8. Hit the bait you are going to coat with a hairdryer for a bit to bring it's surface temp up, this will allow the E-tex to practically glide onto the bait. Slop it on and then get work it into a thin even layer.
9. Put on drying wheel (attached). i keep my eye on it for the first 30 min to make sure there are no sags or fish eyes, after this you will do more damage trying to correct because the set up reaction is progressing.
10. Rotate for 5-6 hours, or until it has set up and will not flow or sag.
11. Place in a drying box (this is the key, I built mine for a couple of dollars, pic attached). I have a 40 watt bulb in mine gets the tep to 110 very fast and I control the temp by opening/closing the top hatch. I keep the baits in the heated drying box for approx. 18 hours.
11. This will give you a crystal clear rock hard coat. i apologize for the lenght of this post, but I struggled for my first year and a half and almost gave up because of crappy clear coat on some of my best paint jobs. This has worked for me, I can only attest to my results and opinions will differ.
Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
Good clearing luck in the new year and Happy Holidays.
MS
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