Lipless how to

[numbskull]

So here is how I cut it.
You need 2 jigs.
The first is to cut the angled arc.
It needs a base you will clamp to the drill table (which has been tilted-I used 20 degrees) and a sled that indexes with the base to swing the plug past the sanding drum.

I used the weight hole to index the plug.
I used a pin block to keep it straight and centered in the tail hole (if you left a square end you don't need this)
The circular block near the front is a cam meant to limit side motion from the sanding drum friction (it worked poorly).

I cut a matching circle/arc but this was a mistake. Better to use a can lid of the right diameter and two contact points on the sled (1/2" sticks with angled ends screwed equidistant from the center line on the bottom of the sled would work).

If you look at the base plate on the drill table you will see it has two sticks on it. These are centered and spaced the diameter of the sanding disc so I can use them to center the base plate to the drum above it.

[numbskull]

So I turn my body, drill a weight and hook hole, center drill from the tail only as far as the hook hole, rough out the head angles (I'll show that later) then mount it on the sled, advance into the disc, and swing it side to side.

Note that the size of your disc is not important, it is the arc of the base that determines your face cove (actually the face cove is not the same as the arc of the base because of the geometry related to tilting...it turns out that you want the radius of the base less than the actual finished cove....you'll need to experiment a bit)

[numbskull]

The head has two angles (roughly a 10 degree chin and a 50 degree forehead). I do that on the table saw using a small jig....just a board with a dowel in it to index the weight hole, and the same tail pin block I use on the sled. Use your mitre gauge at the correct angles for both cuts. You can use a stop block to position the setup.

[numbskull]

This is what you should end up with

[numbskull]

Finally, you have to drill from the face to the hook hole. The larger two sizes of this plug have offset line ties.
To get the angled hole to meet the center drilled hole in the hook hole I use a board with a nail to index the tail hole, offset the nail so the hole will travel at an angle to intersect the hook hole at the midline, and put a drill bit in the weight hole to help me keep everything aligned with the board. The tall nail in the picture isn't used for this plug.

[numbskull]

As far as weighting goes....good luck. A few hints. The original floats very slightly tail down with water about 1/2 way up the face. The weight is very high inside the plug.

Good luck.

[Sgt Striper]

Originally Posted by numbskull

As far as weighting goes....good luck. A few hints. The original floats very slightly tail down with water about 1/2 way up the face. The weight is very high inside the plug.

Good luck.

Very strange weighting on that plug,