Think about running the heat tonight

[5/0]

Some interesting temps you Guys keep at you homes,If you are using a programmable t stats keep in mind that you shouldn't set back more than 4* you will not save a dime as an example.

Hey I leave for work at 0700 and get home at 1700 lets spin the t stat down to 50 & then when I get home just turn it up!
Bad Idea,your boiler or furnace will run strait for hours trying to catch up.All of those inanimate objects ,couch bureaus,beds,table hutch etc. in your house are current ambient temps and there wicking cold air and it's migrating toward your base boards or hot air supply registers and it just eating all of that heat dead in it's tracks!
Trust me.

On my up stairs programmable t stat's I have them set from 0500 to 0700 for 68* then fall back to 64* then at 1830 back up to 68* then at 2130 back to 64* main floor and basement are set for 67*.
I understand everybody has a different threshold for comfort so obviously temp ranges will vary.

Depending on your house/windows and how well it's insulated & using a programmable t stat you can save up to 15-20% of fuel

[MarkB]

you shouldn't set back more than 4* you will not save a dime as an example.

Where in the world did you get that idea? Sorry dude, but you're makin' it up and giving very bad advice. The physics of this question is very simple - turn down more, save more fuel. There's no magic 'wicking' to take account of. This is a very simple formula:

1. The more degrees you keep your house above outside temps...

2. for the longer time

the more energy you use.

If you either set your thermostat lower, or keep it lower longer, you will save fuel.

And running the furnace to raise the temperature more than five degrees doesn't hurt the furnace. A furnace is not like a car engine - it's not like you're pulling a load up hill. The furnace always runs at the same rate. To raise the temperature of your house more, it just runs longer. If anything will hurt your furnace, it's cycling on and off, not running for a long time. That's true of any machinery - it's always the cycling that does the damage not the standard running.

[5/0]

[QUOTE=MarkB;830649]Where in the world did you get that idea? Sorry dude, but you're makin' it up and giving very bad advice. /QUOTE]

Ahh really?This is what I do for a living,I fix/repair and sevice on a commercial,idustrial and high end resendtial level,Dude!

I would not pass bad advice to anyone on this site,since I've been here a long time and know most.


Bob

[striperman36]

[QUOTE=5/0;830658]

Originally Posted by MarkB

Where in the world did you get that idea? Sorry dude, but you're makin' it up and giving very bad advice. /QUOTE]

Ahh really?This is what I do for a living,I fix/repair and sevice on a commercial,idustrial and high end resendtial level,Dude!

I would not pass bad advice to anyone on this site,since I've been here a long time and know most.


Bob

bob knows...heat

[Saltheart]

My house is 1700 sq. ft. I only use about 650 of it. The rest is closed off and kept at 50 all winter long. Back in about 1990 I installed a new heating system. I installed it with 3 zones , one of which is the area I live in , the other two zones is the areas I close off. I remember the gas company guy telling me what a waste to have 3 zones back when I did it.. Guess he wasn't very good at looking ahead at fuel costs. The 3 zones vs 1 zone as originally built has saved me about 4 times the cost of the entire heating system , including the whole furnace , registers and all controls, over the 20 years since I did it. Doing the whole thing myself also saved about half the total cost in the first place. The other good thing is that the fuel just keeps going up and so the annual savings actually increase every year.

[Saltheart]

I'm not taking sides in the setback thermostat debate. What I will say is that in almost all cases , you should do the calculations to really be sure about whats going on. Its just like preparing a budget or estimating the cost of a project. If you do it on the cuff you can often be way off. Best bet is to sit down and write it all out. Now we have the luxury of spread sheets so very accurate calculations can be done on very complicated systems fairly easily.My guess is that the savings with a setback thermostat and how much drop in temp is good will be very sensitive to how long the time interval is between the low temp and high temp swings.

I am not looking forward to doing the heating system again when this one is obsolete. I have not looked into the details myself yet but they tell me the cost of new furnaces , etc has gone way up.

[5/0]

Originally Posted by MarkB

Where in the world did you get that idea? Sorry dude, but you're makin' it up and giving very bad advice. The physics of this question is very simple - turn down more, save more fuel. There's no magic 'wicking' to take account of. This is a very simple formula:

1. The more degrees you keep your house above outside temps...

2. for the longer time

the more energy you use.

If you either set your thermostat lower, or keep it lower longer, you will save fuel.

And running the furnace to raise the temperature more than five degrees doesn't hurt the furnace. A furnace is not like a car engine - it's not like you're pulling a load up hill. The furnace always runs at the same rate. To raise the temperature of your house more, it just runs longer. If anything will hurt your furnace, it's cycling on and off, not running for a long time. That's true of any machinery - it's always the cycling that does the damage not the standard running.

First off I stated nothing more than 4 degrees, if you go grater than that it will take longer to "recover" which would mean what ever you set your temp at your system will run longer than It would have while you were gone(based on 10 hrs.)So this law will apply to any temp.As I stated we all have a different thresholds for comfort,yours just happens to be a balmy 50.

Secondly I didn't say boo about putting stress on the unit,cycling is and can be regulated by stetting dead bands in t stats or you can increase the differential in the heating stages(if your furnace supports more than one stage)or you can also select the amount of cycles per hour on initial start up on a digital t stat or if you have an older merc t stat change the anticipater for amount of degrees so the cycling won't be to close.

Don't go throwing my name out there as giving bad advice Mark,it's not cool, I don't like it.Sso think twice before you go typing away thinking the other guy behind the screen is some young puke just shooting there mouth off.

You copy.

5/0

[Slipknot]

Originally Posted by MarkB

Where in the world did you get that idea? Sorry dude, but you're makin' it up and giving very bad advice. The physics of this question is very simple - turn down more, save more fuel. There's no magic 'wicking' to take account of. This is a very simple formula:

1. The more degrees you keep your house above outside temps...

2. for the longer time

the more energy you use.

If you either set your thermostat lower, or keep it lower longer, you will save fuel.

And running the furnace to raise the temperature more than five degrees doesn't hurt the furnace. A furnace is not like a car engine - it's not like you're pulling a load up hill. The furnace always runs at the same rate. To raise the temperature of your house more, it just runs longer. If anything will hurt your furnace, it's cycling on and off, not running for a long time. That's true of any machinery - it's always the cycling that does the damage not the standard running.

You obviously don't know Bob, but many of us do.
Bob does NOT make things up and give bad advice.

I agree with him on the 4 degrees thing for the few hours of setback time.

On the other hand, say you are going away for the week, sure turn it down 15 degrees and save money. I do that to my workshop when I know I am not going to be out there for days, I keep it warm enough so the glue doesn't coagulate when it gets cold. It does take a long time for all the objects to get back up to temp( I have a lot of cast iron), but it's worth it in saving gas.

Also outdoor temps have a lot to do with saving by setting back the t-stat.
4 degrees is a good rule.

your mileage may vary

[Dave Dennison]

I worked 20 years in the heating trade and installed everything from viesmann boilers to Buderus and weil Mclain. I laid over 100,000 feet or more of radiant tubing. Believe me when I tell you I have been there and done it. Even been down to Springfield, Missouri to Watts Radiant for schools and seminars.
Joe the plumber talks about Tekmar and outdoor reset and they do save money and are awesome for people who know how to use them..
The main problem with these controls is most techs do not know how to install them correctly, and forget it when your oil burner guy trys to work on it or troubleshoot it. I know as I spent many years following guys around who did not have a clue and all it took was a simple seminar to learn about them. Usually when installed the outside sensors are put on the wrong side of the house 1/2 the time or they do not program them correctly. My main reason for saying this is that it usually cost the home owner in the end. So I will say that if you do have one of these systems you should learn about it.

It is True that in Germany they actually have efficency police that will shut your system off if it is not up to spec.

In all my years of no heat calls and frozen pipes and this is an understatement when I say in the winter 80-90 hours a week of it, the biggest problem I saw over the years in temps like this was people turning the T-stat back way to far which resulted in frozen pipes.
It is very true that when you turn your T-stat back to far it does make the system work longer to get it back up to temp. And yes it has to heat everything back up again, floors, furniture and everything else in your house..
When you have forced hot water systems and it is this cold you should never turn your t-stat back. Because once you do it stops circulating the water in the system for a longer period of time.
Still water and a cold draft means frozen pipes. You have to remember most forced hot water baseboard is mounted on outside walls.
I leave my T-stat on 68 all winter and never turn it down. I only heat with oil. I have a forced hot air system in this home. I filled my tank back in August and checked yesterday and its between 1/4 and 1/2 so I do not use much oil at all.

To the guy who had a tech tell him his pipes were frozen and they were not and it was a simple check valve, Thats just crazy, Checking for frozen pipes is as easy as closing the purge valve on the zone and opening up the valve to see if water comes out.. If he did not do this than its cut and dry dont pay the bill..
The problem in cold weather like this is that the techs run from house to house for no heat calls and if they have 3 frozen zones in a row than when they get to yours they assume it must be frozen before even checking or troubleshooting it. They fall into zombie mode so to speak.
Boy am I glad I did my time so I can sit in my lazy boy and be warm rather than in a 0 degree crawl space thawing pipes because the homeowner turned down the heat 10 degrees before they went to bed in weather like this.
Nope don't miss it at all....

[BigFish]

Love our forced hot air! Lucky if we burn 275 gallons in a typical season! Forced hot water is expensive for so many reasons!

[Piscator]

Originally Posted by BigFish

Love our forced hot air! Lucky if we burn 275 gallons in a typical season! Forced hot water is expensive for so many reasons!

I have gas forced hot air but I always thought forced hot water was the most efficient?