RTV molds / Resin cast

[Rowhunter]

After the mold is set, I drilled a pour hole on the top center and cut the RTV. I made a form for the thru-wire and ballast and set the wire in place in the mold and tape the PVC backed RTV together for a pour. Alumalite Resin with a 50 to 75% mixture of microballoons is what I came up with. Measure equal parts of part A and part B resin in separate cups and add your microballoon mixture equally to both parts. Determine how much you need for your pour and mix equal parts of A and B. Mix quickly and pour right away! There will be some heat generated and some expansion, (will come out the pour hole). You can de-mold after only a couple of minutes, reset and do another pour as the first one hardens completely. It is easy to pour ten copies in an hour.

[Rowhunter]

Making jigs as always, aids in the process. I made jigs for the thru-wire, the lip slot cutting, and a holder for the lures with the epoxied lips to stand. Yes, The lip slot could have been molded in, but I wanted to be able to use different lips and lip angles. One version of this minnow style lure I have has a deep diving bill with the line tie on the bill. For that one I'll make a shortened wire that only goes from the belly hook to the tail for the mold. The longer diving bill with the line tie is epoxied in later, and the lip slot is cut at a sharper angle. Heres a pic with some lips epoxied in place, one example of a deep diver and a few others.

Douglas

[ecduzitgood]

What are you using for these lips?

[Rowhunter]

So far I've only done a few lure molds. One is this 7" minnow style , one is this 6 1/2" popper and one jerk/twitch that I've not posted yet. With left over RTV I have made a few eye molds using glass eyes, its nice to have something to pour with leftover resin. The pics show the popper master, a jig for both thru-wires, and the resin.

Douglas

[Rowhunter]

I made these lips from polycarbonate sheet 5/64". I'll draw up and cut out many different shapes and sizes and test them to get desired results. I'll use a thicker polycarbonate on much larger trolling lures, as well as stainless and G-10 phenolic.

Douglas

[Rowhunter]

Remember this is just a quick insight, there are a lot of specifics if you'd like to check this out. With the ratio of resin to microballoon mixture it is possible to achieve density similar to balsa all the way to sinking. So, if you have a plug that you make out of say, Maple or Birch, it would be possible to dial in that mixture, and not have to worry about water intrusion. Painting, not yet! One thing you have to deal with is "off-gassing". The best way to be safe here is to set them aside for about 3 weeks. If you begin priming right away you may have adhesion issues. Also, you most likely have some small pinholes in your casting. If you wish you can fill those with spot filler and lightly sand. I know many of you paint with Creatix or similar, I've been told that Krylon Fusion is a great adhesion promoting primer between the resin and those paints. I use automotive paints so I shoot an adhesion promoter, primer, then start with base coats.

Douglas

[Rowhunter]

Nebe, 20 at a time, you were a glutton for punishment, I'd like to see that mold. And yes, thats a great idea of locking the lips in place if I was only doing that one lip type. Thats the nice part of all of this is that there so many different possibilities.
Ec you are seeing it right. The one with the long lip is not a true thru-wire. The lip and wire tie are epoxied in as an assembly. The belly and tail hook attachment are molded in with the ballast. Yes, this is another avenue of possibilities and especially nice for duplicating pieces that have intricate carving.
Painting, I'm planing on starting another thread to throw some things out there.

Douglas

[Nebe]

Rowhunter, my eels were soft plastic, so i would simply pour a bunch at a time- once they were demoulded, they were done.. no painting..


are you making your own decals?? im assuming that is how your achieving your colors

[striperman36]

Originally Posted by Rowhunter

Making jigs as always, aids in the process. I made jigs for the thru-wire, the lip slot cutting, and a holder for the lures with the epoxied lips to stand. Yes, The lip slot could have been molded in, but I wanted to be able to use different lips and lip angles. One version of this minnow style lure I have has a deep diving bill with the line tie on the bill. For that one I'll make a shortened wire that only goes from the belly hook to the tail for the mold. The longer diving bill with the line tie is epoxied in later, and the lip slot is cut at a sharper angle. Heres a pic with some lips epoxied in place, one example of a deep diver and a few others.

Douglas

can you point to some pointersi on painting those please?