House paining? - Wagner power painter or Brush

[Slingah]

also depending on condition and/or severity of peeling, I find this product helpful - XIM Bonder

[fishsmith]

Thanks for the feedback Slingah, here's what I've got.

The house was built in '64, shingles have little to no spaces between them. I'd guess 6 coats in it's life.

[Slingah]

To me it looks as if you still have some prep to go....hard to see from photos though. Here is what I would do. Start to finish.
1. Wash house with bleach/ detergent. Apply with pump sprayer, rinse low pressure with pressure washer. Let dry.
2. Scrape peeling paint.
3. Sand any high edges flush.
4. Dust off substrates.
5. Prime with a bonding primer like XIM.
6. Finish with 2 coats high quality waterborne paint like Benjamin Moore.

When I paint shingles I use a 4-6 " wizz roller. I can fly with one and end result is always great. Brush trim.
I hope this helps Jim. Any more questions just fire away.

[Slingah]

I use a paint can with the rim removed and a small screen. I also like the longer roller arm. Way faster than a brush.

[Raven]

should be assaulted by a S-B
painting party that has beer
and bbq....done in a day

[Karl F]

Originally Posted by Slingah

To me it looks as if you still have some prep to go....hard to see from photos though. Here is what I would do. Start to finish.
1. Wash house with bleach/ detergent. Apply with pump sprayer, rinse low pressure with pressure washer. Let dry.
2. Scrape peeling paint.
3. Sand any high edges flush.
4. Dust off substrates.
5. Prime with a bonding primer like XIM.
6. Finish with 2 coats high quality waterborne paint like Benjamin Moore.

When I paint shingles I use a 4-6 " wizz roller. I can fly with one and end result is always great. Brush trim.
I hope this helps Jim. Any more questions just fire away.

good stuff right there.. if you don't do the prep, don't bother with the paint....and prep should take longer than painting.. and please.. let it dry good, before applying product..

[Raven]

Originally Posted by Karl F

good stuff right there.. if you don't do the prep, don't bother with the paint....and prep should take longer than painting.. and please.. let it dry good, before applying product..

you read my mind
maybe your pineal gland
is expanding -LOL

stack a pancakes
still laughin

[justplugit]

Matt, I have a front porch 36x12 area which I took down
to bare wood by hand 30 years ago and have since put 3 coats of polyurethane
over the years sanding between each coat the last coat applied with the whizz foam roller. It is in excellent shape with no peeling just needs freshening.

Karl is right about prep, but after all the cleaning and scrubbing do you think i can get away without sanding by using " liguid sander" as a last step?
My back won't take sanding anymore.
Thanks.

[Slingah]

Originally Posted by justplugit

Matt, I have a front porch 36x12 area which I took down
to bare wood by hand 30 years ago and have since put 3 coats of polyurethane
over the years sanding between each coat the last coat applied with the whizz foam roller. It is in excellent shape with no peeling just needs freshening.

Karl is right about prep, but after all the cleaning and scrubbing do you think i can get away without sanding by using " liguid sander" as a last step?
My back won't take sanding anymore.
Thanks.

Hi Dave! My limited knowledge on Liquid Sander is that you need to apply whatever it is that you are using directly after you apply the Liquid Sander....it has an "open time" I have always thought of it as being used for a small item.
If sheen is dulled you might not have to sand much at all....but as you know....shortcuts usually don't cut the mustard....