GSB1201L vs Century Stealth S1 Test Cast

[Saltheart]

Is your 1327 a spinner or a conventional Mike?

The ferrules seizing up if not seperated periodically is a definite possibility with any of the precision machined spigot joints. Its unlikely my Tip Tornado light will ever come apart because I put it together and never seperated it in 3 years. Tha's Ok for now but if my Blazer dies , I'll need to crackl that TTL apart and that may mean resorting to ice and leveraging my legs etc to try to seperate it. I think as long as the two parts come apart maybe once a month , they should not get too stuck.

I wish I could get the data I asked for from Anglers Resources relative to the fuji guide weights. I want to do some calcs but I also want to see some actual data comparing the KW and MN's as one set and cpomparing the KT's and the LAG's as another set.

[Mike P]

Originally Posted by Saltheart

Is your 1327 a spinner or a conventional Mike?

The ferrules seizing up if not seperated periodically is a definite possibility with any of the precision machined spigot joints. Its unlikely my Tip Tornado light will ever come apart because I put it together and never seperated it in 3 years. Tha's Ok for now but if my Blazer dies , I'll need to crackl that TTL apart and that may mean resorting to ice and leveraging my legs etc to try to seperate it. I think as long as the two parts come apart maybe once a month , they should not get too stuck.

I wish I could get the data I asked for from Anglers Resources relative to the fuji guide weights. I want to do some calcs but I also want to see some actual data comparing the KW and MN's as one set and cpomparing the KT's and the LAG's as another set.

It's a spinning rod. K-frames starting with a 30 mm first guide. I don't see the point of a "concept" build with conventional.

[numbskull]

Actually, Fuji shows a way to do this with a conventional, although it seems unnecessary with the distances involved on a surf rod.

You have any interest in comparing the 11 foot Century to a GSB1321M? I'd expect the Century to excel but I, and likely others, would be curious to see how big a difference there really is between the blanks when casting and under static load. If Saltheart has his 11' Stealth by then and is free it could be even better. This weekend the traffic is too crazy, but we might be able to meet some weekday evening at the canal or Voke field.

[Diggin Jiggin]

George your analysis was much more scientific that mine, but I'm glad we came out with pretty much the same impression of it. When you were throwing it what oz plugs did you think were its sweet spot ?

[numbskull]

Originally Posted by Diggin Jiggin

George your analysis was much more scientific that mine, but I'm glad we came out with pretty much the same impression of it. When you were throwing it what oz plugs did you think were its sweet spot ?

I think 2- 2.5 would be fair for me, but I thought the rod was very comfortable well above and below that.

[stiff tip]

i have fished for 8wks the 2 piece century 11ft 3to5oz low rider guides w/ a emblem pro w40lb samiari line .i find it feels quicker, cast farther , is much lighter but more powerfull than my 10-3 ss lami. as for casting in the canal i find a 21/2 to 3oz loaded cordell is ideal for distance.its not the wonder rod but for the price its a great rod for casting a full range of plugs from b-tails jiggs to sebiles to topwater plugs. i;m glad i have mine.obtw. i fish 4-6days a wk on the canal ,and i play hard with the rod its a gread rod for the money for canal fishing.BUT GEORGE IT STILL WON'T HELP UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU stay in your boat and cast too the rocks not from them

[Mike P]

Originally Posted by numbskull

Actually, Fuji shows a way to do this with a conventional, although it seems unnecessary with the distances involved on a surf rod.

You have any interest in comparing the 11 foot Century to a GSB1321M? I'd expect the Century to excel but I, and likely others, would be curious to see how big a difference there really is between the blanks when casting and under static load. If Saltheart has his 11' Stealth by then and is free it could be even better. This weekend the traffic is too crazy, but we might be able to meet some weekday evening at the canal or Voke field.

Sure. I'll be out of the country for two weeks starting a week from tomorrow (and have a lot to tend to in the week ahead) but I'd love to try it when I get back.

[Saltheart]

Originally Posted by numbskull

Actually, Fuji shows a way to do this with a conventional, although it seems unnecessary with the distances involved on a surf rod.

You have any interest in comparing the 11 foot Century to a GSB1321M? I'd expect the Century to excel but I, and likely others, would be curious to see how big a difference there really is between the blanks when casting and under static load. If Saltheart has his 11' Stealth by then and is free it could be even better. This weekend the traffic is too crazy, but we might be able to meet some weekday evening at the canal or Voke field.

I would like to see an 11 foot stealth tested along with an XRA 1322 and the GSB 1321M. However , what I want to see is suitability for application testing. Yes this will involve some casting distance testing but if I were interested in disnce only at the canal I would bring my tip tornado light and just blast them out there. Of course I know its awfully hard to land fish less than 3 feet long with that rod. I need to use heavy weights so feel like I need a chiropractor after using the rod. It does not help you get good casts with minimal effort all night long, it enables you to cast really far if you work your butt off.

Now if I want to win a casting contest I woutd grab the TTL but if I am going to the canal to fish for the night with the goal of landing fish , IMO the XRA 1205 is a far better rod for the application. No contest at all in suitability for application despite there being no contest against the TTL if all we want is distance.

So anyway , without getting too deep into it in this post, when I build the Stealth 11 footer , i will be building it for suitability to application. Doing that on a new to market blank takes quite a while. So I think the timeframe may be more like a months or so after i receive the blank and guides , etc. But I think it will be interesting to see how each blank performs in the application it was built for.


Now if you factor the idea of suitability for aplication in the previous testing and discussions about the 10 footer vs the 120 1L , you will see that that is the basis for a nmber of the comments i made and how I interpret the data differently. An example, the use of the same guides and guide locations on both so that only the blank is the variable. now I can tell you that after tossing eels into the darkness for better than 3 decades, there is no way ever under any circumstances that I would build the 10 foot stealth as an all around plugging and eeling rod using LC guides. That's just an example though and of course expresses a preference for that application on my part.

So anyway , the thing I am hoping people will think about is that rods should be compared on the basis of their suitability for the intended application and they should be built with that specific application in mind. Its a lot easier to build them all the same and then measure the lengths of casts but I think people need to think beyond that, especially when looking at a total newcomer blank (s).

[numbskull]

Originally Posted by Saltheart

now I can tell you that after tossing eels into the darkness for better than 3 decades, there is no way ever under any circumstances that I would build the 10 foot stealth as an all around plugging and eeling rod using LC guides. .
.

Please. Although I share your opinion on the importance of picking a blank based on how you and it fish together (rather than on internet hype or casting distance) I find the quote above a bit condescending.

The guide system I am using on the 1201L and tried on the Stealth builds a very, very good FISHING rod. Casts great, is lighter than anything else out there, and fights fish nicely. Those are my priorities. If you rate weed clearance, knot passage, large reel compatibility, and guide cost higher than I do, then clearly it is not the layout for you. To each their own. No need to imply that the other's priorities are wrong.

Likewise, your implication that the guide layout in some manner hugely compromised the test is specious. You, of all people, know that a blank with 9 guides will load evenly during a cast, and that once that blank unloads the line flow is reel height, spool size, guide type/size/placement, and line type dependent.....BUT NOT BLANK dependent.

The S1 is a very nice blank, so is the GSB1201L. There isn't a dramatic difference between them that I can see, but if you wrap one spinning with a K guide layout and want to compare side by side I'd be thrilled because I'd rather be wrong and learn than wrong and clueless (even though the latter is my norm). That is my only reason for wanting to compare the two 11' Century's and the big GSB as well. Not to decide which is "better" for everyone else, but to learn how they are different so I can make an informed decision which I think is best for me. I suspect we agree on that approach.

[Saltheart]

Originally Posted by numbskull

Please. Although I share your opinion on the importance of picking a blank based on how you and it fish together (rather than on internet hype or casting distance) I find the quote above a bit condescending.

The guide system I am using on the 1201L and tried on the Stealth builds a very, very good FISHING rod. Casts great, is lighter than anything else out there, and fights fish nicely. Those are my priorities. If you rate weed clearance, knot passage, large reel compatibility, and guide cost higher than I do, then clearly it is not the layout for you. To each their own. No need to imply that the other's priorities are wrong.

Likewise, your implication that the guide layout in some manner hugely compromised the test is specious. You, of all people, know that a blank with 9 guides will load evenly during a cast, and that once that blank unloads the line flow is reel height, spool size, guide type/size/placement, and line type dependent.....BUT NOT BLANK dependent.

The S1 is a very nice blank, so is the GSB1201L. There isn't a dramatic difference between them that I can see, but if you wrap one spinning with a K guide layout and want to compare side by side I'd be thrilled because I'd rather be wrong and learn than wrong and clueless (even though the latter is my norm). That is my only reason for wanting to compare the two 11' Century's and the big GSB as well. Not to decide which is "better" for everyone else, but to learn how they are different so I can make an informed decision which I think is best for me. I suspect we agree on that approach.

No attempt in my post to say your build was wrong or faulty. I use the example of the guide choices. I don't say there is anything wrong , just that I would not do it that way. In fact just to be sure I didn't tread on anybodies toes I added the sentence...That's just an example though and of course expresses a preference for that application on my part.

Also , the statement that there is no need to imply someone else's priorities are wrong is a little puzzling. again , I am just trying to state that evaluating the rod blanks can involve a lot of things that for one fisherman or one application may be important to some but not to others. Guide placements mean nothing except how they effect the suitability for applications.

In fact I think the clear difference in how you and I and others sometimes look at things is a very sound basis for discussion. My belief is that these new materials system will take a lot of work to develop into optimized builds and the more input , the better. It would be a very boring topic if everybody simply posted ...I agree.

Your builds are very good numbskull.. Believe me when I say that if I didn't think they were good , I wouldn't waste the time to do the indepth analysis and make the comments. All the input helps me a lot. I already know a ton about the 10 foot stealth from your builds and testing of the two rods relative to eachother. and have already factored that into what I will be doing with the 11 footer , a blank I have not even seen yet. So remember that when I get eccentric about some of this stuff , its just the way I look at things and in no way should be taken as criticism. Its all just points of discussion to me and I learn as much from deciding I will not do it the same way someone else did as i do when I decide I will do it the way someone else did.

[Pete_G]

Some of the newer rod companies focused jigging and throwing lures at tuna, GT's, etc; using some similar graphite technologies, are also planning to build rods for surf fisherman.

Not sure what the end result will be or if and when it will come to pass. It's easy to forget "surf fisherman" aren't just in the NorthEast US so the tapers may or may not be that interesting to us.

The prototypes I've handled (but not cast) don't have the "originally built for carp" taper Big Dave was mentioning, for better or worse.

[Saltheart]

Originally Posted by Mike P

It's a spinning rod. K-frames starting with a 30 mm first guide. I don't see the point of a "concept" build with conventional.

Its done in a similar way as with a spinner. You use spool top hight and spool width on a conventional Fuji Guide Concept build vs Spool diameter and upslope on a spinner.

Same ideas though. Quick as possible get the line under control and close to the blank and then shoot it straight out inside little guides.