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Old 01-04-2013, 04:15 PM   #1
MAKAI
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JohnR, How long does the lume ( I like that word ) last on the orange monster ? My luminox after 20 yrs is tough to see in the deep dark. And the last knucklehead that changed the battery ruined its water seal.

I do like the look of that watch on a big NATO strap for outside the dry top.
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:36 PM   #2
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Damn you! That is a sweet deal, I think I just may have found what I want for my 20th anniversary.

Would you step up to the swiss movement? This would be a once in lifetime purchase. With the kids I could never justify going for a more expensive watch, although I have been coveting them for years.
If it is an Automatic for $99 it is a swiss quartz or a Japanese (err China) Miyota movement. Invicta has a repoutation, not underserved, of stating swiss made on some things Sriss made. Still good bang for the buck. Invicta Autos will have a glass back so you can see the movement.

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JohnR, How long does the lume ( I like that word ) last on the orange monster ? My luminox after 20 yrs is tough to see in the deep dark. And the last knucklehead that changed the battery ruined its water seal.

I do like the look of that watch on a big NATO strap for outside the dry top.
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Your Tritium Luminox Gas Tubes have a half life of 12 years so at twelve years it was half as bright, at 24 years, half as bright again. Trit tubes (and paste on older watches) use the faint tritium radiation to exicte the lume. As that radioactivity fades over time so does the brightness. My Tudor from 1979 has tritium markers that no longer are visible except in the most darkest places with well adjusted eyes being barely visible.

That Orange Monster uses a high quality non-radioactive lume that is charged by light (sun, LED, lamp) and as long as it is charged up, will last many hours on watches with quality lume like that. If well charged, it will start out brigter than a new Tritium watch and fade out over the course of the night and eventually darker than a newer trit watch but still readable. I like the Orange Monster as a cool work / fish watch.

I'll take some example pics on lume if I get around to it this weekend.

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Old 01-04-2013, 10:35 PM   #3
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[QUOTE=JohnR;978029]If it is an Automatic for $99 it is a swiss quartz or a Japanese (err China) Miyota movement. Invicta has a repoutation, not underserved, of stating swiss made on some things Sriss made. Still good bang for the buck. Invicta Autos will have a glass back so you can see the movement.


Hi John - Sorry I should have been more clear I was asking about the 9937 for $275, which usually $1200. Is it worth the extra money or should I just go with the one for $99?

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Old 01-05-2013, 08:52 AM   #4
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It is never 1200 - that is an exaggeration, 275 is a good price as these are normally around 350. The most they have ever been (IIRC) is around $400

It is a nice piece, I prefer the coin edge bezel - like the Rolex Sub instead of the Scalloped bezel like Omega

Other nice pieces, though slightly more, are the Steinhart Ocean 1 and Victorinox.

Also, if the Orange is too flashy there is the Seiko Black Monster Seiko Men's SKX779 "Black Monster" Automatic Dive Stainless steel Watch: Watches: Amazon.com

Keep in mind all automatics are charged by the movement of your wrist so not wearing one for several days will have it stop keeping time

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Old 01-05-2013, 09:53 AM   #5
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There is some good advice in this thread. I have a bit of watch problem. Here are most of my divers. I would recommend them all for surfcasting. The Seiko Orange Monster that John recommended is a classic and one of the best values in dive watches. Seiko just updated it with a new movement that hacks plus several new designs. The Citizen eco-drive divers are solar powered and have fantastic lume. They are great values. I would stay away from Invicta. They make decent $100 watches but I would never spend more than that for one. They also have terrible customer service and poor fit and finish.

My favorites for the surf are my Tissot T-Touch which has bad lume but I like knowing what the water temperature and my Luminox. Both have sapphire crystals which you should look for if you don't want a scratched crystal.

There is a Casio G-Shock with tide information that looks pretty cool. That might be worth checking out. I recommend looking on ebay for the seikos, casios, and citizens. The prices are great and not getting the factory warranty is no big deal for those brands.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:26 AM   #6
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There is some good advice in this thread. I have a bit of watch problem. Here are most of my divers. I would recommend them all for surfcasting. The Seiko Orange Monster that John recommended is a classic and one of the best values in dive watches. Seiko just updated it with a new movement that hacks plus several new designs. The Citizen eco-drive divers are solar powered and have fantastic lume. They are great values. I would stay away from Invicta. They make decent $100 watches but I would never spend more than that for one. They also have terrible customer service and poor fit and finish.

My favorites for the surf are my Tissot T-Touch which has bad lume but I like knowing what the water temperature and my Luminox. Both have sapphire crystals which you should look for if you don't want a scratched crystal.

There is a Casio G-Shock with tide information that looks pretty cool. That might be worth checking out. I recommend looking on ebay for the seikos, casios, and citizens. The prices are great and not getting the factory warranty is no big deal for those brands.
Looks like someone has a crown at 4 addiction

Need a bigger pic

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Old 01-05-2013, 10:58 AM   #7
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Here you go John. The Seiko 007's are just fantastic; comfortable, legible, well made. Everyone should own one and they are not expensive. The Frankenmonsters are very comfortable for a large watch.

I also like the crown at 8:00. I only have three of those.
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:00 PM   #8
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I would stay away from Invicta. They make decent $100 watches but I would never spend more than that for one. They also have terrible customer service and poor fit and finish
Thanks for the info. Now I am all confused. Too bad I really liked the looks of the Invicta. Oh well, I new I would get myself in trouble clicking on the WATCH thread.

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Old 01-06-2013, 01:51 PM   #9
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Greg, for fishing get a G-Shock. 200m on a digital means you can press the buttons under water, 100 m means they are good to 100 but will leak if you push the buttons while submerged. I did do a couple 190 foot dives with a 100m ironman with no leaks..

We used G-Shocks for diving in the Army back in the late 80's/early 90's, don't know what they use now. I had a 200m Casio that was the same as a G-Shock movement, but was smaller until I ripped a spring pin out of the plastic case..

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Old 01-07-2013, 11:24 AM   #10
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Thanks for the info. Now I am all confused. Too bad I really liked the looks of the Invicta. Oh well, I new I would get myself in trouble clicking on the WATCH thread.
Sorry for the conflicting message. What I was trying to say is that if you buy a $100 Invicta or any other Invicta, don't expect too much from it. You are better off with a $100 Seiko, Citizen, or Casio.
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:06 PM   #11
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It is never 1200 - that is an exaggeration, 275 is a good price as these are normally around 350. The most they have ever been (IIRC) is around $400
It's interesting how some watches always have their MSRP's inflated many times over...always. I love the Gevril GV2's on Sierra.

If I was to get a decent watch and just wanted function I'd get one of the basics mentioned in this thread...like I said earlier there are plenty of great options. Just pick the one that you're most comfortable with.

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Old 01-05-2013, 02:43 PM   #12
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I crack up when I dare to watch the watch shows and see some list price $900 watch with 5 easy payments of 9.99 each

Nice old Omega - my next project (after I'm done in 2014 with what i have now ) might be an old Omega Seamaster Big Triangle.

I sold this 1969-71 Ranger just before XMas. The Ranger is like the poor working man's Explorer. It was very hard to buy as there are 10 fakes for every real one but it sold for a good (and fair) price in 2 days because it was a real one. I really liked it and still peeessed I sold it but at 34mm it was just too small.




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Tudors are one of the last kindasorta undiscovered brands in the vintage arena. Vintage watches are like vintage plugs except more people play

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Old 01-05-2013, 04:46 PM   #13
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I sold this 1969-71 Ranger just before XMas. The Ranger is like the poor working man's Explorer. It was very hard to buy as there are 10 fakes for every real one but it sold for a good (and fair) price in 2 days because it was a real one. I really liked it and still peeessed I sold it but at 34mm it was just too small.
Great vintage look though. A lot of women would wear that, my wife's Pasha is 34 or 35mm.

Are you rebuilding yourself?

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