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zoller or hydromatic pumps.
look into SJE vertical master switches.
Put it on it's own circuit.
make sure your pit is big enough short cycles shorten pump life.
Check valve and unions/(removable joints) are a must. I have seen plenty of hard piped sumps, not good when the pump has an issue and you need to get at it like a lodged impeller.
weep hole use your own judgment on that. 1/2 my backyard is wet land, no weep hole on my system. but my sump runs maybe once a year if that.. now..
25' of 10/2 romex
2 gang boxes 4x4 and 2x4 with covers
15amp breaker what the sump mfg recommended.
GFI outlet
sump
switch
10' of 1/2" conduit
3-4 bags of river rock
2 bricks
sump bin of your choice make one with buckets or buy one.
5 sections of schedule-40 1-1/2" PVC pipe, fittings, hangers.
check valve/union some check valves are built into a fernco style fitting for non pressure applications.
That was to take it outside where i had it hooked up to a 100' section of 2" lay flat type hose that I had to move everytime i cut the grass, had company or the kids played.
cost me about $550ish in 07, hose was given to me by a friend would have added another $100.
Personally i would go with 2 pumps since you got 6" of water in the basement. Redundancy is a great insurance plan.
I invested in some landscaping and sealing the foundation walls.
After the big flood of 2010 I found a huge problem where i live and invested about $1600 on some landscaping, but first I dug the foundation down to the footing and coated it with fibered roofing cement, let it sit for a day then carefully backfilled. bandaid #1... second bandaid was spending the money on the landscaping. I was working 6 days a week 10-12hr days so for me to do this was out of the question. I hired a local guy and he built up my front yard added a drain in the low spot. He ran 100' of 6" drain pipe and ran another 50' for my sump dry well. tied in my down spouts on the upper corners of the house to the 100' run. Before that my pump would run with every heavy rain storm.
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