Leader Building

[Long Island Guy]

There are a few other posts about this in various locations and mixed into other topics. I've used the "search" feature on the forums as well, and I have noticed that the specific sizes of things like Barrel swivels and so forth are missing, and as a noob to this subject I'm rather left in the dark! I'm looking to save some money, and to learn all the knots.

I have two questions regarding leaders. I use fluorocarbon 50# 3 foot section of leader at night with eels. This is attached to 30# fireline on one end via a spro barrel swivel 130# test and on the other is attached to a 6/0 Gamikatsu Octopus hook. Is this too heavy of a setup? I chose it because of the rocky conditions and rough structure and felt that I could more easily get away with the 50# fluoro at night. (setup also used in the Cape)

The other question is in regards to lures. I am not sure what strength fluoro to use, what size BB swivels, and if i should use a snap or tie directly as I have seen a # of different responses in regards to this topic. If you guys could respond to this question in terms of a light tackle setup (small tsunami/storm shads/jigs) versus a heavier one, (using lures 2 oz or greater) I would appreciate it. Remember I'm using 30# fireline for the heavy stuff and 20# mono for the light tackle early spring approach for schoolies. Some responses that I have received from other people include using the same test fluoro as the fireline and mono, because of the low visibility of the fluoro, it provides something to grab when using the braid, and is more abrasive resistant. Others have said to use something 10-20 #'s higher then the original line. Thanks in advance.

[The Dad Fisherman]

I always use smaller test for the leader than the main line....if I get snagged I'd rather lose a couple of feet of leader than 20-30 yards of braid.

If I'm fishing 50# braid I use a 30#(Ocean front) or 40# (the Ditch) leader. If i'm using 30# braid I use 23-25# leader.

I also use the SPRO 130# swivels on everything except my schoolie setup...

but this is just what I do, there are other guys that do it different. I don't do the direct tie to the line because it pretty much takes me 10 minutes to tie one sitting in my livingroom, let alone in the dark standing on a rock.

[MikeToole]

For eel leaders I use 30# for sandy beaches and normally 50# for rocky areas. I only go to fluoro for daylight fishing and than it is only when conditions are real calm. Normally use either Ande or Big Game leader material. Usually keep eel leaders at 3' with a 130# spro on one end and a Eagle Claw L2004ELFS circle hook on the other, using polomar knots.

For plug leaders 130# spro with a coastlock snap #33 or 34 on the other end unless I'm going to tie direct. Normally use a snap when fishing nights and direct tie during the day. If it's a plug that you reel in fast or on the surface, like a pencil popper I use a snap during the day. Makes life easier. If the leader is for direct tie I start with a 5 or 6foot leader and replace it when it's down to less than 3'. For leaders with snaps either 3' or 5', depends on if I need the extra length to grab the leader when landing the fish. When I do use a shock leader on it is also when I need the extra length for controlling the fish. Don't want to be grabing enev 50# braid if you can help it.

[cheferson]

Used to use spro swivels , last 2 seasons ive been using krok. Krok are smaller, stronger and cheaper

[Clogston29]

not too heavy for eels at all. i usually use a 5' long 50# leader if using a 10' rod, and a 4' leader if using a 9'. If I could cast it, I'd use a 10' leader. I don't trust braid to mono knots so I'm sticking with the swivel.

i typically use 50# for plugging too, unless i'm using small plugs (like a 1 ounce bomber) or fishing early in the season - then I'll use 30 or 40.

[Pete F.]

I use 60 # flouro and 20# fireline 80# rosco swivel
I have yet to break a swivel, what breaks if I have to break off due to a snag is the single palomar in the fireline at the swivel connection. I usually plug and use the light breakaways and it is still the palomar that goes first. With 30# fireline it might be different.

[Andy D]

I also use Breakaways on the plug end. Surprised only one mention of them. Thats another thread. Don't want to hijack this one. I use 50lb flouro 3ft with a spro swivele tied with a palomar knot to 30lb fireline. This year I'm going back to mono Ande Backcountry

[redcrbbr]

personally using flouro at night is a waste. My general setup is 60 to 80 pound mono leader about 3 foot long tied to a 150# barrel swivel tied direct to a 6/0 or 7/0 gamatsu octopus. I may increase leader strength when i chunk especially if bluefish are around.
plugging in the daytime i use 25 or 30# seagar (not sure which it is), but i am not one of those type of folks that like to horse a fish in and very rarely loose a fish.

[Back Beach]

For eels, don't change anything, except replace the flouro with 50# big game.

For plugs, what Clogston said.

[RIROCKHOUND]

I fished 80lb mono next to JoeP all year (60lb floro) and had no problem keeping steady with him. I agree, unless it's light tackle day or yellowfin in the canyons, floro is a waste of money.

5ft of 80, 175 lbs or 225lbrosco swivel, and a 6/0 eel hook.

[JoeP]

Bryan's right about the fish-catching abilities - mono & fluorocarbon are neck & neck in most cases, especially at night. I use 50 or 60LB most nights and 80LB sometimes.

However, I like fluorocarbon also for its better stiffness over mono, its ability to sink faster than mono due to its higher density, and pound for pound its better abrasive-resistance - I think you can drop down one LB size with fluoro over mono most times (like 60Lb to 50LB...).

[Backbeach Jake]

I use 50 or 65 pound PP. With a 40 or 50 pound mono leader. The leader breaks first.