That swell was due to hit Half Moon Bay today.The 24 competitors voted to not hold the contest.Seems the waves didnt hold up.So we wait for Mavericks.......
Laird Hamilton, arguably the world's best big wave rider at Peahi (Jaws) off Maui on Monday the 7th
When asked how he was able to do it, his father, legendary surfer Billy Hamilton, said "He was born with three testicles"....
No doubt
"There is no royal road to this heavy surf-fishing. With all the appliances for comfort experience can suggest, there is a certain amount of hard work to be done and exposure to be bourne as a part of the price of success." From "Striped Bass," Scribner's Magazine, 1881.
Haven't seen any footage from today's swell yet Larry - but here's more from Monday and some of Tuesday's swell too
Jaws was definitely rockin'...
"There is no royal road to this heavy surf-fishing. With all the appliances for comfort experience can suggest, there is a certain amount of hard work to be done and exposure to be bourne as a part of the price of success." From "Striped Bass," Scribner's Magazine, 1881.
that was my backyard when I was a toddler as I was born on Oahu and lived on the north shore in late 50's. Unfortunately we moved back to Mass when I was 3 or so. Other than pics of me frolicking in the sand i don't remember a darn thing. Been lucky enough to have been back several times but have never seen waves that big. I have also been to the windsurfing mecca of the world, Ho`okipa beach in Maui, to see nuts ride waves almost like those on windsurfer boards, friggin nuts. Those people have a death wish and real fun to watch, from a distance. No wonder Brass Kahunas is a Hawaiian word. Hawaii is the most beautiful spot on earth.
"A beach is a place where a man can feel he's the only soul in the world that's real"
I've seen Riding Giants probably 2 or 3 dozen times - that one wave is still the most incredible display of Nature's force I've ever seen - on top of the fact that he actually dropped in on it...
I still like Greg Noll's comment best - if there's one guy that oughta know, it's him
Laird at Teahupo, Tahiti:
"There is no royal road to this heavy surf-fishing. With all the appliances for comfort experience can suggest, there is a certain amount of hard work to be done and exposure to be bourne as a part of the price of success." From "Striped Bass," Scribner's Magazine, 1881.
Crafty,
I've said it before here and I'll say it again. "Riding Giants" is one of the few movies I wll actually cancell plans to stay home and watch.
Those kids who went to Hawaii,pretty much turned thier backs on society,and started discovering big wave surfing......Well,lets put it this way.I envy people like that who have such passion.Thats what I call living!!!
I agree, that guy Laird must have a a bag of spare testicles. I can't imagine how he is still alive. Some of the waves he has ridden were friggin huge. That one that everyone talks about is a bizarre spot. It is more like a hydraulic jump then an ocean wave . Incredibly thick and heavy with a ton of energy. You fall inside that and your dead.
Heck when it gets 5-7 I think it's rough! 30-50 wtf?
I've seen Riding Giants probably 2 or 3 dozen times - that one wave is still the most incredible display of Nature's force I've ever seen - on top of the fact that he actually dropped in on it...
I still like Greg Noll's comment best - if there's one guy that oughta know, it's him
Laird at Teahupo, Tahiti:
Crafty--
You hit the nail on the head--a force of nature--that's what I find so intriguing about surfing--jump on this mass, this swell of energy and smile.
You surf??
I just got a 9'2" Stewart Hydrohull, really liking it.
Yeah - it'll be 47 years next summer if I'm still ambulatory by then...
Mostly on a Morey Boogie twin fin these days because
of serious back problems - but I did break out my 8'2" Nectar noserider for a swell this fall with no ill effects - Gary shaped it for me himself shortly before his stint at the Crowbar Hotel
I really enjoyed Riding Giants because of the perspective of the veterans like Greg Noll, Lopez, Billy Hamilton and the others on what's happening today - it's come a long way in terms of performance
Hell, the first board I rode was a 9'8" Greg Noll with triple redwood stringers and an inlaid glassed wooden skeg
Yeah, that was a while ago...
"There is no royal road to this heavy surf-fishing. With all the appliances for comfort experience can suggest, there is a certain amount of hard work to be done and exposure to be bourne as a part of the price of success." From "Striped Bass," Scribner's Magazine, 1881.
You've got me beat by, well--let's say a wide margin. I didn't start surfing until I was in my 40's. Something about sitting on the board, looking out at the swells, feeling the rise and fall. I discovered it to be harder than it looks and more fun than it looks.
With respect to the old timers, Noll and some of the others were every bit as fearless as these big wave guys are now. Imagine paddling into some of those beasts with a heavy wood monster, no jet skiis to sling you or rescue you when the bad thing happens, no life vests--yeesh. I cannot imagine it then or now. Never seen huge surf in person and I've only surfed NE. My philosophy is when it's over my head I'm in over my head. Enjoyed some good storm surf this summer on MV. Love to see Mavericks, from the cliff! I guess now is about the time. Just the sound of that surf sends chills down my spine.
Its all Bob's fault!
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