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| Boat Fishing & Boating A new forum at Striped-Bass.com for those fishing from boats and for boating in general |
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12-29-2010, 06:41 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,649
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Backing Plates
I am completely rebuilding my anchor windless and re-installing it correctly. (so much was wrong with it I don't want to get into it here) So, I have it all rebuilt and tested and I am now re-installing . Upon removal I notice there was no backing plate, it was bolted to the deck using SS hardware and washers. My deck is cored so there is no way I am putting this on without a backing plate, the windless can exert some real force so I want this load distributed over an area much larger than the washer area . So, I went down and cut/drilled some 1/4" AL plate to match all the holes in the unit...it all looks good... but.... now I am thinking AL is probably not the right metal in an anchor locker in contact with SS hardware. SO, now I am thinking either making a "plate" out of 5/8" marine plywood or maybe some SS plate (expensive and hard to cut).
What are your thoughts?
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12-29-2010, 06:46 PM
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#2
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lobster = striper bait
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Popes Island Performing Arts Center
Posts: 5,871
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G10
Wander down to the boat yard in Vineyardhaven and ask the yard guys if they have any scraps.
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Ski Quicks Hole
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12-29-2010, 06:47 PM
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#3
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Permanently Disconnected
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,647
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I had 5/8 aluminum 12x12 put in my boat for the t top legs jim. It's not failed yet.
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12-29-2010, 08:05 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,649
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That G10 stuff is insanely tough...How do you machine it? I heard it eats up carbide tipped tools within a few inches.
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12-29-2010, 08:09 PM
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#5
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lobster = striper bait
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Popes Island Performing Arts Center
Posts: 5,871
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Its not that bad as long as you don't go too thick.
Diamond table saw blade will do it fine. It will chew up teeth on everything else.
Make sure to bed with 4200 on BOTH sides (around the bolts).
If you really wanna make sure you have no core penetration, oversize the holes, fill with epoxy, redrill.
Last edited by likwid; 12-29-2010 at 08:17 PM..
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Ski Quicks Hole
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12-29-2010, 08:13 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Libtardia
Posts: 21,692
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Plywood will rot over time. I agree with Ted.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
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12-30-2010, 07:52 AM
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#7
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Also known as OAK
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Westlery, RI
Posts: 10,408
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Jim:
Put a capstan on the research boat for hauling samples. used 1/4" Aluminum as the backing plate, 4200 on it, and then put SS fender washers.
Haven't had a problem with corrosion and it is very exposed.
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Bryan
Originally Posted by #^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&
"For once I agree with Spence. UGH. I just hope I don't get the urge to go start buying armani suits to wear in my shop"
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12-30-2010, 07:56 AM
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#8
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Keep The Change
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: The Road to Serfdom
Posts: 3,275
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You could use the Al and add a sacrifical zinc to it, watch the Al and replace it in a few years if need be. I agree anchor locker is a tough place high humidity/corrosive environment.
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“It’s not up to the courts to invent new minorities that get special protections,” Antonin Scalia
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12-30-2010, 09:36 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,649
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Likwid...You think 1/4" G10 is the right thickness? I am going to order some 12X12" sheets and give it a try. I think if I can cut/drill it, it would be an ideal backing plate. That stuff is bulletproof, stiff, strong and non corrosive. I just don't think I can cut and drill it but I will give it a go.
My other thought was some 3/4" King Starboard but that stuff is kind of flexable.
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12-30-2010, 09:46 AM
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#10
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lobster = striper bait
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Popes Island Performing Arts Center
Posts: 5,871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Sandman
Likwid...You think 1/4" G10 is the right thickness? I am going to order some 12X12" sheets and give it a try. I think if I can cut/drill it, it would be an ideal backing plate. That stuff is bulletproof, stiff, strong and non corrosive. I just don't think I can cut and drill it but I will give it a go.
My other thought was some 3/4" King Starboard but that stuff is kind of flexable.
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1/4" is more than enough.
Just go nice and slow drilling it, I bet depending on the space you could get away with an entire 12x12 square to back.
We use it for backing plates for winches.
There's no difference between drilling your fiberglass hull and G10.  |
Ski Quicks Hole
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12-30-2010, 11:49 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Libtardia
Posts: 21,692
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Jim, if you UPS it to me, i will drill it for you...
This is my slow time of year at the studio
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12-30-2010, 07:54 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Libtardia
Posts: 21,692
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Don't you mean 5200 hound?
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
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02-14-2011, 07:44 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Newtown, CT
Posts: 5,659
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How much does this g10 cost?
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02-14-2011, 08:07 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,649
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About 20 bucks for a 12X12X 1/8 sheet, I picked up a few 6 X 12 X 1/4" sheets (for cleat backing plates) and they were about 12 bucks a pop.
Not cheap but will do the job and last longer than the boat.
These guys have a ton of it up to big sheets but it is costly
McMaster-Carr |
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02-14-2011, 08:57 AM
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#15
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zoom
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Quincy
Posts: 4,145
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That G10 stuff is the berries. Yes it does STINK when cutting.
We have plenty at work, and I used a piece to go over my anchor locker, mount a winlass and roller. I painted it white and it is still like the day I put it on. Never corrodes, never fades and stronger than steel. It is a resin filled and fiberglass reinforced. Not epoxy though.
I used carbide to cut it, and did it outdoors.
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~..~..~.. ><((((º>
Things done at the last possible minute are done with the greatest possible information. Procrastination is, therefore, the most efficient means of doing things.
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02-14-2011, 11:44 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Newtown, CT
Posts: 5,659
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Wow! at those prices I'll stick with my CCA treated lumber!
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02-17-2011, 03:15 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: RI
Posts: 446
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saturated plywood will work great for years and years. G10 will work great forever. That's the only difference.. besides a lot of $$$.
If I may make another suggestion. When bedding something that exposed to light (ie not a backing plate in a anchor locker) I'd highly suggest 3M 4000UV. It still has good bonding characteristics but doesn't yellow in the sun like 42/5200
btw JD is cheaper than McMaster for g10  |
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