I see some people don't use a reel seat while surf casting. This is somewhat puzzling to me. What is the reason/advantage of this? Doe the reel loosen? Does the reel spin on the rod after fishing it a while (Tape wear or loosen). Just looking for some answers, I've never seen this before. I don't plan tp try it but it is an interesting
concept.
Maybe I'm just a greenhorn to this but, why would you want to reposition thr reel? Isn't it supposed to line up with the guides? Do you move it up or down the rod? To change the distance from the butt to the center of the reel?
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I'm a tape guy, but then again I'm an old electrician.
I use rubber compound tape first then high end 3m stretchy tape, rock solid.
Only takes me a few minutes, and I can put the reel exactly right on the sweet spot.
I have always felt the reel seat chokes the load up of the blank.
Without it I can feel the flex between my top and bottom hands, It's just what I'm used to.
I got to use a 9 foot legend this fall and the one thing that kept me from buying it was from the ferrule down it was as flexible as a pool cue.
It's just a feel thing for me, makes me think I can cast further.( A spot I fish, that 10 extra yards is all the difference in the world )
I don't know the answer to this, but is that why on some distance casting rods the reel is on the bottom ?
I got to use a 9 foot legend this fall and the one thing that kept me from buying it was from the ferrule down it was as flexible as a pool cue.
I don't know the answer to this, but is that why on some distance casting rods the reel is on the bottom ?
A rod with a zoned action will cast further than a "slow" parabolic action that bends in a nice, even curve tip to butt. A designed for distance rod will be of faster action with a soft tip that transitions into a moderate midsection and then yes, a very stiff butt.
Here is a fast action rod being test cast:
The thing is, zoned action rods need a different casting motion to maximize their performance and for some of the fishing done on the East End there just isn't the luxury of having solid footing and the ability to add rotation.
That means given the tactics that are demanded by your spot the "better casting" rod won't be better casting for you. For open beach work and on a flat jetty and with a refined casting motion, fast "stiff" rods will always outperform a slow action stick. As one's casting skills improve, the use of these slower sticks fade away because they just collapse under higher energy casts.
Of course there is the opinion that slower actions work some lures better, particularly pencils . . .
The primary reasons for low reel mounting in competition casting is for grip on the small baitcaster reels the guys use (typically 5500 Abu's) and unencumbered power application for the top hand. The entire thumb is on the spool in low reel and slippage is eliminated.
I use spinners in casting competition and I cast high reel.
I have multiple rods, but not multiple VS's... reel seat it is... I would prefer each rod have its own reel and be taped, but its not in my near future.
Sometimes in the fall I tape over my reel seat. It is warmer if you are not touching metal.
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Advantages of tapeing:
1. Warmer on the hands (as stated by above)
2. Greater adjustment allowance for using different size/weight reels.
3. Increased sensitivity/feel when plugging/eeling.
4. You'll look like you're old school
Hi Rizzo!
DZ
DZ
Recreational Surfcaster
"Limit Your Kill - Don't Kill Your Limit"
Bi + Ne = SB 2
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I personally don't like my hands wrapped around the reel seat for comfort reasons, especially when it is cold. Graphite seats seem to take care of some of the issue. Some questions.....
I was wondering if anybody has used the "ergonomic" graphite reel seats from Fuji?
Pics of the ergo seats seem to be upside down in the catalog pics, or is it just me?
Also, are the clip on reel seats are a whole lot better on the hands than the normal designs, and are these always taped on?
I personally don't like my hands wrapped around the reel seat for comfort reasons, especially when it is cold. Graphite seats seem to take care of some of the issue. Some questions.....
I was wondering if anybody has used the "ergonomic" graphite reel seats from Fuji?
Pics of the ergo seats seem to be upside down in the catalog pics, or is it just me?
Also, are the clip on reel seats are a whole lot better on the hands than the normal designs, and are these always taped on?
i saw a guy in at the somerville dam holding his rod upside down, and pumping his legs in a strange fashion. maybe that was an ergonomic setup???
off topic......... has anyone seen a plastic reel seat break. i know a lot of guys have steel/ metal reel seats. necessary or overkill?
Old habits die hard. The old metal reel seats often had issues from getting stuck to actually rotting off the rod. To me Fugi took care of all of the old issues so now all of my rods have seats.
Now if you use reels that have a big difference in weight on the same rod you may still need to do this so you don't end up with a tip heavy rod.
Advantages of tapeing:
1. Warmer on the hands (as stated by above)
2. Greater adjustment allowance for using different size/weight reels.
3. Increased sensitivity/feel when plugging/eeling.
4. You'll look like you're old school
Hi Rizzo!
DZ
I thought that was taped on stainles guides???@ Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
Just use some dacron and make a loop and pull the line through, wrap tight around the reel's feet and then hold it tight and tape it up. No knots or anything to worry about and she shouldn't move. Change the tape every now and again if you dunk your reel a lot and you shouldn't have problems with tape failure. Don't use the cheap tape either. Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device
Back in the days of the backside, I always just thought havin your reel taped on was a badge of a "sharpie". Have tried it and didn't like it simply as sometimes it would almost feel like the reel was going to fall off. And it was a major PIA to change or take reel off to service. Plus made it tough to take reel off when leaving in truck. Would rather have someone thief just the rod rather than rod and reel. I used to use the fuji clips, but since my second hand custom rods all have the twist on reel seats, that is what I use now. Feels very secure when swimming and I have never felt that I loose any sensitivity as opposed to having the reel taped directly to rod. Sense of peace of mind.
To each their own............
I like a graphite reel seat. I often use a dremel tool to sand a bevel on the ridges so its more confortable for me and for some people I build for if they want that.
I have a rod with a taped on reel. Its a very light spinner. Its been that way for many years. I just did it as part of a very quick build long ago before I took up rodbuilding. I just leave it that way now.
I don't like metal seats unless required for strength as with some big game rods. For all surfcasting i like graphite seat.
The only graphite seat I have seen broken is my own on my Canal rod , an XRA 1205. I have written bout falling on it and breaking it.
I have seen several totally rotted aluminum seats. I have also seen many where only the thread area was rotted , which makes getting the reel off very difficult.
Plate seats can be wrapped on with thread and finished or they can be taped on. A lot of people like plate seats if they have smaler hands. I don't like plate seats myself as the reel always seems to have some play to it when a plate seat is used.
To put a reel seat on or not is a matter of choice for some of looks or style for many others it's about performance. Not all reels are the same and most custom rods are built with a reel sized to fit it ,the angler and the use. When you put a different sized reel on the rod spool size,weight,shank length and line test all are different therefore the distance between the reel and the ist guide are different. Most anglers can hardly tell the difference .It's like driving a ferrari or a neon to work every day at 35 mpr. The only difference to most is how people look at them as it's kinda hard to feel any difference. get on a race track though and look out.I've built custom rods since the early 70's and most of the surf rods built up to 90 were without reel seats due to the styles and different reels anglers used.The old coffee grinders were huge compared to the Sustains and so many other braid freindly reels of today which are very close in size.The old reels also were all over the place weight wise up to 30 oz or better without the line on them.Decide what your gonna use the rod for most then go talk to someone like Mike at MnD to get his advice.No reel seat gives you loads of room to play and learn with. a good grafite seat is comfortable and works good. BUT all reel seat wear out in time. Once on a rod it's not very practicle and it's very expensive to replace.Ron
Hooked, do a search on 'Fuji FS Plate Reel Seats' and you'll see what they are. Rather than taping your reel directly to the blank, a plate style seat is a low profile mounting platform that affords quick-change capability of the reel that taping the reel to the blank does not (and in addition you retain all of the desired characteristics I point out in my previous post). Typically, you tape the plate to the blank at your preferred location (I whip mine on with thread and epoxy) at three points on the seat (front, middle and rear).
And as Stripermaineiac points out, seats wear out over time. Untaping (or cutting off) and replacing a plate style is simple. A collar style is epoxied to the blank and a project to replace.
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Those Fuji plate reel seats are sweet.Got a bunch of rods with them on them.
I don't like 'em. The reel just never feels as secure as it does with a proper Fuji seat...I even thread wrapped mine on with grip tape underneath. Went through a phase as I was trying different things out...but I'll always go with a regular seat from this point on.
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