Outboard help.

[Rob Rockcrawler]

I havent started my 1995 mercury 30 2 stroke in about 5 years. I changed the fuel line, fuel filter, got new gas and battery and she came to life quickly. Unfortunately, she isn't peeing. What part controls that? I guess im really looking for a starting point on fixing the problem. Any help is appreciated.

[PRBuzz]

Are you in the water or feeding from a hose? Do you have enough hose pressure? Did you run long enough to open the thermostat?

Better wait for more experienced opinions, just a couple I had.

[Rob Rockcrawler]

I was using a hose for a second, then i put it in the water since i wasn't sure if the hose was actually giving it enough water.

[piemma]

Rob, if all else fails call Jeff at Lakeview Marina. He's the head mechanic and does all the work on my Yami. They are in Webster and are an honest outfit to do business with.


Webster, Massachusetts, Bennington, MirroCraft, Larson, Yamaha, Mercury, Mercruiser, Volvo Penta, Boat, Motors, Used, Parts, Service, Shoremaster

[striperman36]

water pump. did you see if the thermostats opened. the pisser may be clogged stick a paperclip up there.
other wise, is the hose connected to the pisser?

You maybe have to replace the impeller

[thefishingfreak]

The pisser works all the time regardless of operating temp that's the first sign it's not getting cooling water. Most probable cause is blocked pisser tube, poke a paper clip in the end an make sure it's clear. If you can, disconnect it and blow thru it. If the pisser hose it truly clean and not pissing, then you have a problem possibly impeller dry rotted? Or just plain old?
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[piemma]

Originally Posted by thefishingfreak

The pisser works all the time regardless of operating temp that's the first sign it's not getting cooling water. Most probable cause is blocked pisser tube, poke a paper clip in the end an make sure it's clear. If you can, disconnect it and blow thru it. If the pisser hose it truly clean and not pissing, then you have a problem possibly impeller dry rotted? Or just plain old?
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Absolutely correct. The pisser pisses regardless of the Thermostats.
I'm betting a clogged tube (Billy Nolan and I both had that problem a few years ago when we were crawling into the shallows and s#^&#^&#^&#^&#^&g up sand, mud and seaweed) or the impeller is shot. I change my impeller every year and the thermostat every other year.

[Rockfish9]

Mud dauber wasps LOVE to make nests in the tell tale... just pull the hose off of the tell tale, and see if you have water pressure...some of those engins have poppet ( pressure control ) valves... that can stick and cause an issue... anyone that grubs around in the shallows should change their pumps and T-stats every two years... if you do it when you re register, you will have a build in reminder..

[fishsmith]

The comments here on SB are great, for more reading, here are some links I've used in the past for many a motor woe:

Mastertech Marine: Mercury, Johnson, Evinrude, Force, Chrysler, Tohatsu, Nissan, Yamaha Outboard Motor Troubleshoot5ing Guides

BoaterEd

[Rob Rockcrawler]

The hose was connected, i unclogged the urethra, it was crusted over with what looked like dust/mud. I took the boat out of the water. I changed the lower gear oil, it was milky white, i know that isn't a good sign. If i get out of work early this week i will dump her in the water and try again.

I tried using "ears" or whatever the things that you attached to a hose. But the seal was so poor i didn't know if it was safe.

How long does it typically take to open the thermostat? And how do you tell if its open?

Thanks a lot for your help guys.

[chaz]

sounds like you may need a lower unit seal kit,also feel the water thats coming out of the prop area it should be a little warm but not extreme so it does not burn you.
thermostat should open within a few minutes at idle speed.

make sure the intake screen is clear if and when you try the flusher ears again

fyi : i would have the impeller changed,its 5 yrs old they are made of rubber and get dry/fail.causing major issues heads warp crack overheat etc

[Rob Rockcrawler]

Looking at some youtube videos, it looks like changing the impeller isnt that hard to do. I will get the kit this week and see if it helps. I will get a lower unit seal kit as well while i am at it. This is actually kind of fun tinkering with this. I have never done much work at all in outboards, its a learning experience i guess.

[chaz]

just read the instructions and make sure the delivery tube gets inserted properly upon reassembly.go easy on the bolts that hold the lower unit on they can be stubborn,salt has a way with things

[TheSpecialist]

I did mine and need a second set of hands when I out the lower back on, but other than that it wasn't too bad.

[striperman36]

I used 15" threaded rods to get the lower up.
The worst thing was getting the damn key into the shaft and the impeller

[fish4striper]

Put a stiff piece of mono down the pee hole spiders and bugs can clog them up. When u pull lower unit fish the mono down thru. I'd chg thermostat while yr at it 2 strokes pretty easy to work on
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[MakoMike]

Change out the impeller, its due for a change anyway, then follow the cooling system and clean out every where you can reach.

[Mr. Sandman]

Originally Posted by MakoMike

Change out the impeller, its due for a change anyway, then follow the cooling system and clean out every where you can reach.

What he said! Impeller. I changed mine every season just so I could sleep better. it is not hard (but it may be be a bit of a challenge on a 1985 unit) If it is still clogged you probably have a internal corrosion issue that could be more involved.

You will find that those older motors will not run very well on today's fuel. Start researching fresh power.

[piemma]

Rob, check this out on eBay


25 hp outboard | eBay

[Rob Rockcrawler]

Awesome guys. Thanks for the help. I hope she runs like new when im done with it all.

[nautibuoys]

Use a length of weed whacker line to clear; better than a paperclip or mono.

[Linesider82]

I've got a 95 Johnson 25 2strk and on the bottom of the shaft there is the grate for drawing in water and then a few pisser holes that drain water once the motor is pulled from the lake. When hooking up earmuffs w/ hose attachment use a piece of duct tape to seal off the small pisser holes if the earmuff cannot cover these holes or has a bad seal, which is usually the case. As for the milky white lower unit oil, that is a sign of water getting into the oil. This is caused by a few things. 1) Behind the prop there is a gasket (all models) and a trap (some models) which collects fishing line /string/ rope as a protector to the gasket, this may need to be cleared/cleaned. If that is the case the gasket may have been damaged by excess fishing line etc, allowing water to enter into the driveshaft area. 2) the Lower Unit Gasket Seal kit that was mentioned before has failed allowing water to get into the lower unit oil. IF you would like to DIY, check out iboats.com you can purchase a repair manual for about 30 bucks, I did and they are about 200 pages, Brand specific (Merc, Yami, Johns, Etc) cover all models and years, two and four stroke, have tons of pictures with step by step instructions and in my opinion worth every penny. Goodluck! -Matt Also, if you pull the prop, replace the cotter pin with a new one, no need to explain to your fishing partner why he is rowing into shore.

[fish4striper]

Originally Posted by Linesider82

I've got a 95 Johnson 25 2strk and on the bottom of the shaft there is the grate for drawing in water and then a few pisser holes that drain water once the motor is pulled from the lake. When hooking up earmuffs w/ hose attachment use a piece of duct tape to seal off the small pisser holes if the earmuff cannot cover these holes or has a bad seal, which is usually the case. As for the milky white lower unit oil, that is a sign of water getting into the oil. This is caused by a few things. 1) Behind the prop there is a gasket (all models) and a trap (some models) which collects fishing line /string/ rope as a protector to the gasket, this may need to be cleared/cleaned. If that is the case the gasket may have been damaged by excess fishing line etc, allowing water to enter into the driveshaft area. 2) the Lower Unit Gasket Seal kit that was mentioned before has failed allowing water to get into the lower unit oil. IF you would like to DIY, check out iboats.com you can purchase a repair manual for about 30 bucks, I did and they are about 200 pages, Brand specific (Merc, Yami, Johns, Etc) cover all models and years, two and four stroke, have tons of pictures with step by step instructions and in my opinion worth every penny. Goodluck! -Matt Also, if you pull the prop, replace the cotter pin with a new one, no need to explain to your fishing partner why he is rowing into shore.

Good info! Stainless on the cotter pin is a must
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[Rob Rockcrawler]

Thanks paul, i didnt think about ebay. I need one for a 30, i think my motor uses the same parts as a 40 hp. I gotta do a bit of checking to find out exactly what model i have.

[Christian]

Check the thermostats. Bet they are just stuck. Clean em up or buy new ones if they're rotten. Every merc does this if it sits more than a season. I would just replace the thermostats. $25-30 I think
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[Christian]

Oh! Put them in a pot of water on the stove and heat up the water and watch to see if they pop open. You'll know they are working or not.
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[Rob Rockcrawler]

I gotta get a repair manual, didnt come with one. I have the owners manual thats it. Time for google.

[Christian]

It's wicked easy. Take off cowling. Look for a water hose connected to two bolts at top of the head. Take em off and that's the thermostats right there. It's a piece of rubber with a brass disc and a spring.
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[fish4striper]

Check YouTube lot of DIY videos for outboards cars small engines, it's crazy what you find posted
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[Rob Rockcrawler]

Changed the impellor , and she is pissing like sea biscuit. But she has a rough idle and craps out after about 30 seconds. If i throttle up the same thing happens. Im good for about 30 seconds. On to the thermostat.