System 3 Clear Coat Issue

[Eric Roach]

Has anyone ever had a problem with S3CC attacking the paint? This afternoon was the first time I've tried it and I was surprised to see paint dissolving into the epoxy when applying.

The paint is Hydro Mist water-based acrylic(?). I've used this same paint with the same base coat, primer, filler & sealer before with no issues using E-Tex.

Eric

[ProfessorM]

never used that particular paint but never an issue with that problem and I use water based paints too.. It is the finish coat I have used for several years. Have had some other issues but not that one. No idea why your having a problem.

[Eric Roach]

I think this was the result of rushing; I'm not sure I gave the paint enough time before top-coating. The plug is salvageable, but fish-eyed with some color runs.
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[numbskull]

I don't know about the paint you are using, but Createx gets tougher if you heat set it before topcoating.

As for fisheyes, that should be Clear Coat's middle name.

[Nebe]

Did you wire the plug before you clear coated? The oils from your hands can really do a good job with fish eyes
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[Eric Roach]

I like the hardness of Clear Coat, so I'll try it again on another plug after ensuring the air-brushed paint is 100% dry. I'll heat-set it as well.

I wire my plugs after the first coat of primer because of the problem you mentioned, Nebe.
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[Eric Roach]

Been using an acrylic clear "scratch coat" over paint for a few weeks -- works great and has alleviated nearly all blemishes when epoxying with E-Tex.

But...

I coated a lure with System 3 Clear Coat this morning and the epoxy turned the acrylic scratch coat to gel. Label says it's 100% solids, but I'm guessing there's solvent in there somewhere.

Sticking with E-Tex, it produces the most consistent finish for me.

Also, I have switched to applying the E-Tex with my finger (wrapped in Cling Wrap) instead of an acid brush and have been very happy with the results.

[ed morini]

Eric
Just because a product says its 100% solids it does not mean the solids are inert. In addition, there may be considerable heat when the batch kicks... may not feel like much but could affect an uncured acrylic coat. I would hazard a guess here that there was a chemical reaction between the finish coat and the epoxy jmo


Ed

[stripermaineiac]

Had to chuckle Eric. i put rod finish on that same way yrs ago. I'm curious why did you stop usin the acid brushes to put on your etex?Was it due to the hairs coming out? If so I fixed that prob by taking some super glue and placing a drop or 2 at where the brush an the metal meet.then let them set a couple days. no more loose hairs or damn few compared to when not using the super glue. Ron

[Eric Roach]

Originally Posted by ed morini

Eric
Just because a product says its 100% solids it does not mean the solids are inert. In addition, there may be considerable heat when the batch kicks... may not feel like much but could affect an uncured acrylic coat. I would hazard a guess here that there was a chemical reaction between the finish coat and the epoxy jmo

Thanks, Ed. Hard to say exactly what it reacted to -- I used the same paint that reacted before (though I hoped the clear coat would protect it - it might have made it worse). The clear coat dried in a low-humidity, open-air space for 4 days before epoxying and the paint dried for 24 hours after heat-setting before the acrylic coat.

Though I think it's more durable than E-Tex, it looks like S3CC is a better choice as a sealer for what I'm doing.

[Eric Roach]

Originally Posted by stripermaineiac

Had to chuckle Eric. i put rod finish on that same way yrs ago. I'm curious why did you stop usin the acid brushes to put on your etex?Was it due to the hairs coming out? If so I fixed that prob by taking some super glue and placing a drop or 2 at where the brush an the metal meet.then let them set a couple days. no more loose hairs or damn few compared to when not using the super glue. Ron

Hi Ron,

I used the finger trick sometimes when Flex-Coating long wraps, but that hasn't been necesary since switching to Thread Master.

Yes about the acid brushes; and a good trick with the super glue. More of a problem than the long hairs are the little black hair-flakes that get in the finish.

The finger-brush is working pretty good for me. The epoxy seems to go on quicker, though with more bubbles. After passing a butane torch over the bubbles to pop, I'm good to go. The finish has become consistently good.

[stripermaineiac]

I know what you mean. I've been able to cut that almost completely out by brushing the brush across my fingers or something hard and it gets them out of the brush. I still see them sometimes but nowheres near as bad as before.With the amount of epoxy i do I need to use them as you can't spray the glitter filled etex due to the type of flakes the glitter has.Clogs the nozzle right up.LOL one of the prices of getting the effect I want on the plugs. Tight lines Ron

[ed morini]

Eric,
The only time I've had problems with an epoxy coat was when I tried to seal the opaque color with an non epoxy clear coating. I now use only a thinned epoxy sealer/primer, then full mixed epoxy to finish. From what I've observed the acrylic paints dry hard as nails and provide a very durable finish (think house paint) but are still a form of plastic. I have not had very good results in using exterior acrylic clear finishes ( Minwax polycril etc.) The water based clears do not hold up as well as the oil or oil modified finishes...I wish they would. I am very interested in your problem but can on rely on empirical knowledge as a guide and without the chemistry I do not think there is a suitable answer. I would suggest foregoing the clear coat and try the epoxy.

Ed