Bilge lube

[thefishingfreak]

Pulled the motors for rear main oil seal leaks plus a few other drips making a mess in the bilge. Plus a general light overhaul.






Rear main seal leak

Doing oil pan gasket

Kits came with head gaskets so might as whell. Right?


Just about done. Waiting for a few more parts this week.turbo rebuild kits coming also.



Now to do the other one

[beamie]

Mike,

Oh boy you work pretty fast.

While it is in the shop how about the hoses? I am seeing that small lube oil hose that runs underneath....easy to do now.

What else "important" did you do besides the rear seal and gaskets. Did you put new nozzles on the injectors or at least have them bench tested and reset the popping pressure? Did you look at the valve seats while the head was off and give a quick lapping since the head was off? How much of a ridge was there in the cylinder where the top rings stops? Was the rear seal really dry or not too bad.

Lookin good, hopefully the weather holds good for you.

[bobber]

outboards baby.......

outboards

[Piscator]

Originally Posted by thefishingfreak

Pulled the motors for rear main oil seal leaks plus a few other drips making a mess in the bilge. Plus a general light overhaul.






Rear main seal leak

Doing oil pan gasket

Kits came with head gaskets so might as whell. Right?


Just about done. Waiting for a few more parts this week.turbo rebuild kits coming also.



Now to do the other one

Mike (& Beamie) boy, I wish I had your talents...........
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[thefishingfreak]

Changed all the hoses. I didn't take the valves out of the heads, they were pretty much mint looking. I didn't want to get into relapping them and valve seals. it only has 2800 hours on it. I wasn't going to even pull the head but the gasket kits came with head gaskets so I figured what the heck. I set the valve lash. There was almost zero wear on the sleeves.

I'm Rebuilding the turbos also.
I caused this mess myself by running too much oil in it.
The specs call for 2.6 gallons I have been running 3 gallons even. Because that's where it reads full on the dipstick.
The dipstick is marked wrong on these.
There is a short stubby dipstick on one side and a flat one on the other side. I have going by the flat one. Big mistake. Too much oil blew out the rear main. That plus the running angle of the motor.
You can see these two stick give totally different readings

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[nightfighter]

You have mad skilz.... and the equipment. How many hours in total to this point?

[thefishingfreak]

A day to take them out
Another day to separate the transmissions and steam clean them
Another day building this one.plus a bunch of time here an there tinkering and getting parts together. Etc.

Today I'm tearing one down start to finish. I'm also cleaning out all the cooling systems. Oil coolers. Aftercoolers. Plus I'm sanding,epoxy priming and painting as I go.
Hopefully next weekend they will both be ready to reinstall.
Then ill work on the bilge. Painting the bilge new battery trays. Clean up the wireing. Moving the holding tank up about a foot so it will self drain. Swapping all the plastic thru hull fittings that i couldn't reach before over to bronze
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[MakoMike]

I'm impressed, wish I had the time, space and knowledge to do all that.

[beamie]

Mike,

Just read the whole thing about the oil level on the other site. Agreed with many things esp the running angle. Keep in mind that the engine will probably run fine with 1.5 gal of oil. Many times the reason for more oil is to allow it to cool before it goes into the system again. But as said if too high if it gets whipped by the crank that is really bad. I see this allot on 12 cylinder air conditioning compressors that get too much oil in them whips and foams the oil, not good.

I guess those 240 yanmars are good engines, really wish they still made them in the US would consider replaceing my chevy 350 with one.

[thefishingfreak]

I'm also NOt removing the timing cover, or the fuel injection pump/ governor, the oil pumps, or the fuel injectors. Or messing with the cranks. they both ran mint, they just leaked..the 3 years i've owned it it never skipped a beat.
One of the waste gates was stuck shut on the turbo, but at cruise it didn't effect it. it doesn't dump the excess boost until wot or really heavy load.

[Raider Ronnie]

You should give that ugly yellow/orange colored engine stand a coat of primer & paint while you're at it

[thefishingfreak]

It will be yanmar grey when you get it back
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[thefishingfreak]

#2 the port motor.
Exhaust leak here. The lower bolt was missing.
This is a reman block, the other one was factory new. I was told one of them blew up with 300 hours. so they repowered it with reman.

Pretty clean here

Oil pan gasket done. Perfect place for my new wolverine block heaters to stick on

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[Raider Ronnie]

Now is the time to plumb in drains on the bottom of the pans for oil changes rather than pulling through the dip sticks.

[thefishingfreak]

I see no benifit of doing that. I could pull the drain plug out and plumb in some sort of pipe to suck the oil out of. The dipstick already goes to the bottom of the pan and the oil gets sucked out of there.
Swapping suking from the dipstick tube to suking out of the drain plug hole would probably drain an extra 2 ounces at best.
The oil cooler off the block is full. The remote heat exchanger oil cooler is full. The lines are full. There is probably a quart maybe 2 wuarts of oil left in the block once you take the entire oil pan OFF.
You will never get ALL of the oil out, on oil changes. No matter where you suck it from. There's at least 6 ounces In the cooler itself.
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[Guppy]

Awesome job Mike!

Pulled and rebuilt a ford 427 back in the day. After all said and done she kept blowing head gaskets. After several attempts with all sorts of special gaskets I sent her out to a "real" ( LOL) mechanic..... come to find out, the heads had been planed so many times the head bolts where bottoming out!!!!!! Torque looked great,,,, little did I know they where bottoming out.
I got pretty good at changing head gaskets in short order

see you in the spring, Gup

[Rip Runner]

Hey Mike,

Good work there!

Since you have everything out it's a great time to take a look at or replace your through-hull fittings. It's the #1 reason boats go down and it usually happens at the dock. Just ask Dave from Hard Merchandise.

Also if you have any extra $ kicking around I would replace your engine hoses with airplane grade hoses. I have them on the new Cummins and they are sweet.

[Mr. Sandman]

Your absolutely right about that oil level. I had a similar issue and figured it out that "FULL" is actually "TOO FULL" on mine as well . It is safer to be on a little under full than right at full. I over filled mine just like you showed and one day I saw a little oil in the bilge. (I keep a clean bilge so I see every drop) Traced it back to a breather hose and I zipped tied a "puke can" to it and lowered it to just below full and no more oil sprayed out. If you are in the safe range... that's good enough you don't need to be perfectly topped.

Boat engines are not like trucks they run at a trim angles as well so an overfilled crankcase could have exasperated effects underway.

Your doing a nice job... I wish I had the energy you do ( laid up with painful back problems at the moment and probably will be all winter) . I would love to replace all the seals and rebuild a couple things.

That thing is going to give you a lot of piece of mind next season...nice work.

[thefishingfreak]

Getting there. Just need to clean the aftercoolers and a few more hoses on order.





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[Typhoon]

How many extra bolts do you have left over?

That's an easy 5 bolt job for me.

[fish4striper]

Very nice Mike!

[Piscator]

Mike,

Any idea how much that job would have cost for the typical guy bringing it to a shop????

[Nebe]

Wow. I'm impressed! I would never know where to begin.
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[thefishingfreak]

Originally Posted by Piscator

Mike,

Any idea how much that job would have cost for the typical guy bringing it to a shop????

Probably 5 grand easy
I bet the shop would up-sell you to a complete major overhaul on each motor, That'd probly be 20grand
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[Piscator]

Originally Posted by thefishingfreak

Probably 5 grand easy
I bet the shop would up-sell you to a complete major overhaul on each motor, That'd probly be 20grand
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Got to love cost avoidance!!!!

[PRBuzz]

Generally parts are affordable but it is (paying for) the labor that is the killer!

Mike: If you charged your normal hr rate x hrs spent + parts is that how you cam up with $5K?

[thefishingfreak]

I have about 40 hours in it so far and I bet a marine shop would get 100-125+ an hour
Just over a grand in parts so far.

Im Just lucky to have the shop, the forklift, the engine crane, the space etc…
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[MakoMike]

Originally Posted by thefishingfreak

I have about 40 hours in it so far and I bet a marine shop would get 100-125+ an hour
Just over a grand in parts so far.

Im Just lucky to have the shop, the forklift, the engine crane, the space etc…
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And the knowledge to do it!

[ThrowingTimber]

I would still be trying to pull them out

[piemma]

Originally Posted by ThrowingTimber

I would still be trying to pull them out

Me too. Mechanical ability is not my strong suit.