Grip tight spikes

[dannyplug1]

Does any one out there in bass land know if you can use the grip tight spikes with a boot foot wader? I have an older set of waders I think I would like to try this with. any information or advise would be appreciated. Charlie

[DZ]

Charlie,
Do you mean Grip Studs? If so just make sure the wader boot has enough width to accept the stud length without going through the bottom of your boot sole. The Edge has some Simms Wading boots in the closeout section. Not all sizes but might be worth checking out.
DZ

[numbskull]

I put the lowest ones in some Simms Bootfoots (muck boots) and they have held pretty well. A few (about 1/3) tore out, and no way would anything but the shortest ones work since the soles are too soft to handle any twisting, but overall the boots are better than nothing on slippery wet rocks (not weed covered stuff, however).

[numbskull]

Here is what you get. You can see some rolled and the studs nearest the toes did not hold but what is left is better than nothing and adequate for wet rock.

[dannyplug1]

George where did you get them? Are there different sizes. I have old simms waders with a felt on the bottom of the muck boots. I know they are now illegal. but they cost fourhundred bucks and are comfortable as hell. And I would never use them in fresh water with the potential for transfering an invasive species such as rock snot etc. By the way the darters that you traded me for the musso swimer are killer. Thanks again Charlie

[numbskull]

Here is a link for grip studs Grip Studs™ Screw-In Tire Studs | Traction in Ice, Snow and Dirt | Wader Studs

There are, however, other options that work well in felt, which apparently holds studs better than rubber.

I think these are popular http://carbidetractionproducts.com/i...id=5&Itemid=27

I've also used wearbars studs with some success in vibram boots, but I think the INS product above is supposed to be better.

Simms also makes some low profile studs that lots of fly shops carry.

What length to get depends on what you do. Lots of bubble weed you want long ones. Slippery bare rock you want short ones.

[parker23]

I installed them in felt and rubber soles. Used a washer to stabilize them and prevented them from digging too deep and rolling. Felt boots have been used at least 30 times this season with no loss of studs yet. I have only used the rubber soled a few times and have not lost any.

If your soles are thin, maybe a few washers will build up enough depth so they don't go through the sole.

I drilled pilot holes in both the rubber and felt soles. The tool that I purchased install in a drill and broke after my 1st use. I ended up using vice grips to install the rest. The manual tool might be more durable.

I really like these studs.

So much better than the sandals I have been using for years...

[DZ]

Charlie - the Edge has Grip Studs in stock.

[rphud]

I like Parkers washer addition. Makes a bunch of sense engineering wise.

[puppet]

Originally Posted by rphud

I like Parkers washer addition. Makes a bunch of sense engineering wise.

I added the washers to the grip studs for my felt bottom boots.

I spent a week on the block and three days in newport. Not one
spike leaned over or came loose.

I weigh 210.

Prior to the grip studs, I had been using the wearbars with the
same method on the same model of boots.....over the last two
years. The wearbars in comparison would lean after two
nights....not all but a couple per boot. Some would loosen and have
to be tightened after every outing....some would disappear.

I found that the wearbars from last season were very corroded and
most of those wearbars that disappeared... didn't pull out, but the
threaded shank actually broke, because of corrosion or fatigue.

All I have to say is thank you for guys like GattaFish and DZ who
have spent the time experimenting with these over the years and
then sharing the results. These grip studs rock so far and it has
saved me so much grief.

I do one variation for both the grip studs and the wearbars .
Because I am using felt bottoms...which seems to relax/soften when
wet... I have been using glue to firm up the felt. I use gorilla glue.
First I wet down the whole sole with water. On the wearbars I
would drive the spike in...back it out...fill the hole with glue....then
drive it back iin. With the grip studs, I just place a glob of glue
then drive both the stud and washer in over it. I am hoping that
the auger is pulling glue down with it. The glue expands more with
moisture and seems to really firm up and get absorbed into the felt
fibers. It seems to make a better anchor, but I have not been
adventurous enough to try it without....since my first attempts with
epoxy. It definitely seems to have had better results than the
epoxy I tried a couple years ago.

[iamskippy]

There are a few great posts here about grip studs vs wear bars, this is my first season using the studs and i am impressed. Weighting in @ 270 i have had no issues with out washers and i have but a lot of miles on these boots already.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

[Ian]

Originally Posted by parker23

I installed them in felt and rubber soles. Used a washer to stabilize them and prevented them from digging too deep and rolling. Felt boots have been used at least 30 times this season with no loss of studs yet. I have only used the rubber soled a few times and have not lost any.

If your soles are thin, maybe a few washers will build up enough depth so they don't go through the sole.

I drilled pilot holes in both the rubber and felt soles. The tool that I purchased install in a drill and broke after my 1st use. I ended up using vice grips to install the rest. The manual tool might be more durable.

I really like these studs.

So much better than the sandals I have been using for years...

Pics? Having trouble visualizing how this would work...

[chefchris401]

how are you guys using washers with the GRIP STUDS?

there is no head for a washer to hold against and the shank is so wide i cant see a washer having a hole big enough to fit the shank thru while being small enough to fit the head snuggly.

[GattaFish]

The right size hole in the washer will fit around the auger and stop on the head. I have even experimented cutting a groove to accept the washer and give it even more support.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

[parker23]

These are 1/4" flat zinc washers from Home Depot.
Washer manufactured by Crown Bolt Part # 19821

12/package for a couple of bucks.

[Ian]

Sweet!

[puppet]

Originally Posted by parker23

These are 1/4" flat zinc washers from Home Depot.
Washer manufactured by Crown Bolt Part # 19821

12/package for a couple of bucks.

I think I used the same. 1/4" hole allows enough to rotate through the auger but locks to the
spike head. I just bought a 100 pack from lowes....probably $5.

[jeffthechef]

Originally Posted by chefchris401

how are you guys using washers with the GRIP STUDS?

there is no head for a washer to hold against and the shank is so wide i cant see a washer having a hole big enough to fit the shank thru while being small enough to fit the head snuggly.

don't know size washer but i found that one that "screws" down the shank and the head can hold against. not tight but it MIGHT work. so far my experience with grip studs holding the sole has s*cked!